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Book Author(s)
Andrew Ralston
Review Author
Allan Murrell
Published on
Company
Veloce Publishing
MSRP
$30.00

This book is a general collector’s guide to classic Tinplate toy cars from the 50’s and 60’s made in Japan. It covers cars from a classic era of tinplate toy cars and covers all the major companies and countries they were sold in. The book shows the most known and collectables of the time period. The book has great pictures and lots of detailed information. This book brought lots of memories back to me as a kid getting a few of the cars shown in the book as birthday and or Christmas gifts from my family. The book may have a limited audience but I for one loved it!

I recommend this book to everyone with an interest in tinplate cars from Japan and also all those who, like me, was a kid during the 50’s or 60’s.

Thanks to Veloce Publishing for providing this book to review and IPMS USA for allowing me to review it for them.

Review Author
Dave Morrissette
Published on
Company
Coastal Kits
Scale
1/700
MSRP
$16.50

Coastal Kits specializes in display bases for models and has a wide ranger covering aircraft, armor, ships, railway and even sci-fi. From their website above, the bases are pre-printed with high quality imaging on a laminated wipeable matt vinyl surface which, unlike paper products, will not raise or bubble and are mounted on a durable 3mm foamex base. The base for this review is the Ship Display Base #4 which is 12” x 17” in size and printed with a nice ocean scene. It is an excellent size for 1/700 large ships or smaller ships in larger scales.

Looking at what is in the package, it is a beautifully printed base on one side attached (as advertised) to the foamex board. The board is fairly flat but I suggest attaching to an even firmer board and taking the time to frame the edges for better finish.

Review Author
Brian R. Baker
Published on
Company
Eduard
Scale
1/72
MSRP
$16.95

History

The Spitfire is perhaps one of the most famous fighters to emerge from World War II, combining performance, development potential, versatility, and beauty in one airframe. I cannot imagine a modeler who does not know the basic history of the type, so I won’t repeat it here. The Mk. VIII represented by this kit was an upgrade from earlier models, which gave improved performance. Developed from the Mk. VII, the Mk. VIII featured a 1710 HP Merlin 63 or 66 engine, and all were fitted with the Vokes tropical filter. While most had the standard elliptical wingtips, some had the extended wingtips for high altitude use. A few were also equipped with “bubble” canopies. Most Mk. VIIIs were used in the Middle East or with the RAAF in the Far East against the Japanese, where they were superior to every Japanese fighter encountered.

Review Author
Mike Lamm
Published on
Company
Dragon Models
Scale
1/72
MSRP
$18.00

The Sturmgeschütz III (StuG. III) was Germany’s most widely produced armored fighting vehicle of WWII. By the end of the war, over 10,500 vehicles, in a number of different versions, had been produced. Built on the chassis of the Panzer III, and originally designed as an infantry support vehicle intended to knock out strong points and hardened defenses, it really proved itself as a tank destroyer first on the Eastern front in Russia. First in Russia, the StuG III Ausf. F was armed with the longer 7.5cm StuK 40 L/43 gun and became a formidable opponent on the battlefield.

Review Author
Jim Pearsall
Published on
Company
Master Model
Scale
1/144
MSRP
$3.74

Master Model of Poland produces small brass parts for detailing models, be they aircraft or ships. They have parts for aircraft in 1/32, 1/35, 1/48, 1/72, and 1/144, mostly pitot tubes, refueling probes and gun barrels.

These are 4 20mm gun barrels for Japanese WW2 fighters. I had a 1/144 Platz N1K2 “George” on the shelf, which I built for a review about 4 years ago. I selected it for the upgrade.

Removal and Replacement

Removal was a simple job. I used sprue cutters and cut the guns off the wing, as close as I could to the leading edge. The kit has fairings at the base of each gun, but I fixed that later. Once I got the plastic guns removed, I used a sanding stick to flatten the base of the kit fairings. This gave me a clean surface to drill into. The instructions call for a .4mm drill. Looking at my .4mm drill and the guns, I downgraded the drill to a .25mm. The hole was still just a little large, but .25mm is about the smallest drill I’ve got.