IPMS/USA thanks Masterpiece models for supporting the IPMS USA reviewer corps with one of their unique (and very useful) tools. I understand this was one of the items debuting at the Nooga Nats… Lucky you guys! And thanks to IPMS leadership for sending it to me for a review opportunity.

This is a clear ruler, approximately, well, ok, it’s actually exactly six inches long end to end. It is, however, a simple concept. Making accurate measurements for larger kits on a clear (Styrene or Lexan, I can’t tell) ruler. VERY nice.

A very convenient and accurate tool, this ruler does what it says; measures in 1/32 scale feet and meters, one on each side of the face. No turning over to read calculations, no math. Just hold it up to the part to ensure it is correctly scaled out. Can’t be more basic than that, and I have already put it to use several times.

Italeri have re-released this 1991 kit with new decals the decal options include three airlines - Air UK (1985) Canyon Eagle Airlines 1998 and Schreiner Airways (1966).

The twin-engine Fokker F-27 was designed during the fifties by the Dutch Aircraft Manufacturer to provide a successor to the old DC-3 that were still in service since the second world war. It was a great commercial success for airlines and military use.

In the box is:

• 4 x white sprues (one varies from the illustration in the instructions)
• 1 clear sprue
• 1 large decal sheet
• 1 instruction booklet

The kit consists of 4 main sprues, very well molded with very little flash but a few large ejector pin marks on some parts. I decided that I would build the Air UK aircraft as I worked with Air UK in the past on a few projects interior projects.

This set includes two complete sets of landing gear for Eduard’s recent Spitfire Mk. IXe and Mk. XVI kits. Each set is comprised of 5 pieces: two main struts, two scissor links, and a tailwheel with the strut. The parts are drop-in replacements for the kit parts.

As the struts are small and space around them on the casting tree is pretty tight, the first thing I did was to use a razor saw to separate the parts from the casting tree. To keep myself from getting confused, I removed one set only so that I could match the parts up with the ones left on the casting tree and keep left and right straight.