There seems to be a different philosophy between Europe and the US. In Europe, the modeling community seems to want to have every little detail and everything opened up. In the US we tend to add detail but not in every single little access panel.

This set is designed to allow you to open EVERY single access panel on the Spitfire. The instructions show you how. It is up to the modeler to decide which ones to open. There is no panel that is left undone.

There are templates to help remove the plastic panels on the kit. There is a new cockpit access hatch and a radio access panel. Some, but not all, access panels have detail on the inside so when the panel is posed open whatever is inside can be seen.

Eduard also provides teardrop templates so you can use heated plastic and make new light bulbs. They are in various scales.

This is a combined review of Master Model’s two optional turned brass barrels (20mm Hispano), and Browning tips and fairings for the Eduard Spitfire Mk.IXe and Mk.XVIe:

• AM-48-102 - Spitfire Mk.IXe/XVIe early version (conical fairings).
• AM-48-103 - Spitfire Mk.IXe/XVIe late version (rounded fairings).

I love, love, love the Eduard Spitfire series of kits. The kit has impressive detail to say the least. Sure there are some things that could be improved with aftermarket. One of those things is the armament.

Master has been producing some of the best turned metal barrels and pitot tubes in the world. These sets are in keeping with that reputation.

The Kit

The plastic motorcycle parts are on a single sprue, the figure on a separate sprue, plus a sprue of clear parts, a set of photo etched parts, and a decal sheet with markings for the motorcycle and uniform patches for the figure. The instruction sheet is very nice: Large, clear, and in color.

The parts are all very cleanly molded, no issues with flash, sink holes or ejector pin marks, and the detail is crisp. The kit also includes plastic jigs for bending the photoetched parts.

The Build

Following the instructions, the build begins with bending the photo-etched parts. The spokes for the wheels are no problem, but the fender supports for the front wheel assembly were a bit challenging. In order to get the proper curve where the supports attach to the front fender, I used a small paintbrush handle, pressing into the cutting matt to get the proper curvature. I couldn’t get a sufficiently curved bend using the jig alone.