The lead article of this issue, and the cover feature, focuses on a spectacular diorama by Frank Bazin, which he calls Hill 112. It’s a historical vignette of a moment in time. It depicts the British thrust of July 10, 1944 in their vain attempt to break the German hold on Caen, a month after the Allies landed in France. Bazin’s diorama captures the intensity of the immediate aftermath of the British bombardment and is what all modelers should strive for in a diorama. His article focuses on three components of the diorama - the enhancements and weathering of the Tamiya Tiger I, the exquisite scratch built figures which populate the scene, and the foliage that dominates the hill top.

This is the first of a two-volume set detailing the history, tactical development, and use of the various marks of the Sturmgeschutz III, commonly referred to as the StuG III. Volume 1 is predominately text. Volume 2 is mostly photographic in content.

This book offers a wealth of data for modelers, as well as those more interested in the technical aspects of this weapons system. Chapters include: background, technical development, series production, design variants A thru G, the factories involved in production, and combat records and troop reports.

There is a full developmental section, where the evolution of tactics is examined. Due to the requirements of the conflict, a weapon developed to support the infantry with mobile heavy firepower, evolved into a premier tank killer and improvised tank replacement. A howitzer-armed version, the Sturmhaubitze, was introduced to remedy this, with limited success mostly due to the limited numbers produced.

The Orange Box Series kits from Dragon are basically previously released models that have been repackaged. The kit in this review is a combo of Dragon 6069 Schwerer Plattformwagen Typ SSY railcar flat top and Dragon Kit 9018 Pz Bef Wg III Ausf K.

Review of the Railcar

The instructions are a composite of the two separate sets of instructions, so I’ll start with steps 23 and 24: the assembly of the railcar frame and top or deck. Make sure that you have a flat surface to place the 4 pieces of the deck and that surface will not be marred by the possible glue seepage between the 4 pieces. Lay the 4 pieces face down and run a line of glue between the panels. While the glue is still soft, place the frame on the underside of the deck and make sure that everything is square. Glue the frame to the deck and let it dry.

Having no knowledge of this series of MiniArt kits, I was expecting about 5 pieces of resin to clean up, prep, slap together quickly, paint and weather. Wrong! One finds upon opening the box 464 grey plastic pieces on 48 sprues. However, there are only 3 different sprues, each repeated 16 times. Instructions are line illustrations on two double-sided 8x11 sheets, and are pretty straightforward – more on this later. When the dust has settled, you will not only have a brilliant diorama accessory but also a number of extra parts left over which will be extremely useful for the diorama hound.

Issue No. 52 of AFV Modeller has the usual mix of articles and special features that this magazine is known for. However, the emphasis of most the articles in this issue seems to be on weathering. I know that weathering is in the eye of the beholder and some may not be convinced that a heavily weathered vehicle is appropriate. Nevertheless, the articles provide illustrated instructions on how to get the job done.

The cover article, on the odd German vehicle known as the Minenraumer, uses the 1/35 scale RPM kit. Rather than concentrating on constructing the kit, the focus of Albert Lloret’s article is on weathering this unusual vehicle. In a step-by-step process, Mr. Lloret provides a number of techniques using masking, diluted paint, and weathering powders to produce a well weathered vehicle.