Project 628 was a design study, circa 1952-1953, to fit a Vladimir Nikolayevich Chelomei (Влади́мир Никола́евич Челоме́й) sub-sonic cruise missile to the 1,500-ton diesel-electric Soviet XIV series K-Class sub. The Russian Project 628 proposal is similar to what the US Navy did with a ‘Loon’ launching from a Gato Class submarine, the USS Cusk SSG-348. The original K-Class design was approved in 1936 as a long range "cruiser submarine" with a heavy torpedo and gun armament. The boats could operate as a "fleet submarine" working with the battle fleet or as long range commerce raiders. The double hull was divided into seven compartments. It was originally planned to carry a small floatplane for scouting but this concept was abandoned when the planned aircraft proved too flimsy. Twelve submarines were built, although seven of them ended up being trapped in Leningrad by the Germans, and were not finally completed until after the end of the war.

This is the sixth, and latest, in Albatros’ series of “Windsock Centenary WW1 Modeling Specials,” each dedicated to building specific Wingnut Wings Kits

The booklet itself is done to very high publication standards, featuring 44 full-color, glossy pages within covers of slightly thicker stock.

In keeping with the format of the series, this book covers a step by step build of WNW’s latest release, the Junkers D.1. There are also scale plans, a collection of photos from a special archive, and a nice appendix.

This is the photoetch upgrade set for Eduard’s 1/144 MiG-15 UTI kit, stock number 4444.

The PE fret contains parts for the cockpit, undercarriage doors, wing fences and antennas.

The PE is done concurrently with the kit build, as the tiny parts in the cockpit are just too small to manage while the parts are mounted inside the fuselage. The cockpit upgrade consists of instrument panels, control sticks, side consoles, and seat belts.

The additions to the cockpit make it stand out and look really good.

I did not use the wing fences. I just don’t have the skill with the glue to make these look convincing. I have done this before with other kits, and the bottoms of the fences always look blobby, with areas not well connected.

On to page 2 of the instructions.