When Steve Collins and Dick Montgomery announced that the 1/72 T-28B was available for review, I jumped at the chance. I have seen T-28’s flying, at Keesler AFB, Mississippi, when I was there in 1967, and my Guard unit flew T-28s in 1957-58 between the F-51s and the F-84s. Alas, both of these were T-28A’s, not B’s. But when I saw the back of the box, I immediately knew I had to build the one from VT-27, as it was based just down the road at Davis-Monthan AFB in Tucson, Arizona, in 1983. Some day I’ll find out what the Navy was doing flying out of DM.

THE AIRCRAFT

The North American Aviation T-28 Trojan is a piston-engined military trainer aircraft used by the United States Air Force and United States Navy beginning in the 1950s. Besides its use as a trainer, the T-28 was successfully employed as a counter-insurgency (COIN) aircraft, primarily during the Vietnam War. T-28s were built from 1950 to 1957.

Years ago, Eduard produced a photo etch set for the Monogram Devastator that really breathed some life into that venerable old kit. With the release of the new Great Wall Hobby Devastator, once again Eduard comes through with a PE set that pushes detailing well beyond the already superb lever that the kit itself provides. I had hoped to receive this set in time to use it with the GWH Devastator that I was building for IPMS review. As it turned out, the Devastator build was nearly completed before this set arrived. Nevertheless, here’s a rundown of what you get.

This new Big Ed set is a combination of four photo etch sheets and a complete set of vinyl canopy and wheel masks. The Flap sheet has supports, bracing, and flap parts for both the upper and lower wing. This is especially helpful, as there is a noticeable gap created with the joining of the kit’s lower wing to the fuselage. These parts should hide that opening completely.

Unlike my last review sample of SAC products, this time the USPS did not wreak havoc on the package and all but destroy the contents! They delivered an intact and fully usable set of landing gear.

What you get in the package is a full gear replacement in white metal for both main gear legs and the tail wheel. As you can see from one of the photos, the SAC gear has simplified things by making the compression scissors one piece versus two pieces.

Detail is crisper on the metal gear than on the kit’s plastic parts, as has come to be expected from SAC. The replacement parts are a drop fit with no issues whatsoever. They worked flawlessly and added considerably to the look of the finished model.

The package says this mask set is designed for the Trumpeter Seahawk Mk. 100/101. However, it also can be used for masking the canopy in the Trumpeter Seahawk FGA.Mk.6 kit (if you are unable to find Mask set EX220), since these kits share the same clear parts. With a little adjustment here and there, set EX 374 may also be usable for masking the canopies in Classic Airframes1/48 scale Seahawk kits.

Like other Eduard mask sets, this one is made of Kabuki tape (similar to Tamiya’s masking tape) and contains precut masks for the kit’s windscreen, canopy, gunsight, and wheels. The masks will adhere well to any flat or curved surface, so masking is easily accomplished, and the masks can be removed after paining is completed. A simple instruction sheet is included to guide the masking process.

The set consists of two photo etch sheets, both unpainted brass. You get parts to add details to the main gear areas of the engine nacelles. These consist of new ribs and frames. Also included are details to enhance the already very detailed engines. There are parts to detail the inside of the engine cowling access doors and engine cooling doors. You also get framing detail for these access hatches.

The instructions are quite adequate in explaining bending and placing the details. They also tell you what you have to remove on the existing parts so they will fit.

The down side of these beautiful detail sets is that once the plane is completed, it is hard to see all the work you have done. But I know they are there and if you look real real close you can see them.

HIGHLY recommended. One should have experience working with photo etch and using ACC glues or epoxy.