Ever productive Kiev-based ICM is back again with a new offering in its Sd.Kfz. 251 halftrack line; this time with the /18 WWII German Observation Vehicle, with crew. This highly detailed, ubiquitous subject offers two build options; one sporting an MG-34 up-front, and the other a straight reconnaissance vehicle. Included are a highly detailed radio set, a full engine and transmission, and dual, posable doors in the back reflecting the early ‘A’ model design. ICM has gone all out on this gem of a kit, even adding five, fully detailed figures to the mix.

History

During the Second World War, the Sd.Kfz. 251 was the primary armored personnel carrier of Germany, and served as a base vehicle for many other specialized halftracks. The Sd.Kfz. 251/18 variant (Mittlerer Beobachtungspanzerwagen) was an armored personnel carrier employed for observation and communications, distinguished by a map table mounted on the roof of the control room. Some of these combat vehicles remained armed with an MG 34 machine gun with a shield, while others were equipped with the S.F.14Z rangefinder for observation, targeting and distance determination. This latter version is the subject of this build.

The Kit

As far as I know, this is the only injection-plastic kit of this particular vehicle mark, although ICM produces several other versions of the Sd.Kfz. 251 halftrack. The first thing I noticed about this release was the number of parts in the box. This kit is made for modelers who like to build a model. While a lot of the detail is covered up in the end, ICM has put a lot of time and effort into features that are mostly missing in other -251 kits. A full engine (that can be exposed by an open hood), functioning view ports, separate wheel swing arms, a full assortment of interior tools and rifles, posable rear clamshell doors, and the complex interleaved wheels that give German halftracks their unique look. Poly tires and a set of rubber-band tracks finish the vehicle off.

Two separate sprues contain five unique figures that can be added to the interior of the halftrack, including two radio operators, a driver, and two officers.

The kit is shipped in a sturdy ‘locking’ clamshell box, but instead of sliding a simple sleeve over the box, ICM drops a standard model box top over it. The overall impression is one of sturdiness. Since the kit is not shrink-wrapped, the double-layering helps to ensure that nothing will be lost in transit. Nice. Once open, all parts are bagged and the decals are slipped inside the instruction booklet.

The plastic is soft but not too soft, and the molding is excellent with no noticeable flash. The sink marks that are present can easily be filled in before assembly, if desired. The two tires are slipped over separate wheels to allow for easy painting.

The detail overall is crisp and the number of attachment points and nodes, while many, are in areas that are easily addressed. While many of the parts are very delicate, ICM pulls off the design without resorting to using photo-etch, which is a big plus (for me at least).

The contents of the box include:

• Seven sprues of parts molded in light-grey plastic.
• Two sprues of figure parts molded in light-grey plastic.
• One sprue of clear parts, including headlights.
• 1 medium-sized decal sheet
• 1 32-page, full-size color instruction booklet, including a parts map and (three) four-view color painting and decal guide. All text and label information are translated into English.
• Markings provided are for three vehicles, all WWII German Wehrmacht.

The Instructions

The instruction booklet is excellent. Printed in color on high-quality, satin-finish paper, it starts off with a short history and vehicle specifications, color reference information, contact information, and an excellent parts map with unused parts clearly identified. What follows is a two-color set of instructions broken into 118 well-illustrated, small steps. Images are rendered from several angles so you are never forced to guess about how things go on ‘the other side’. There are three separate, full color pages that show the paint callouts for the five figures include in the kit. The last three pages show full-color multi-views of camouflage schemes – all in early-war German grey, as follows:

1. Beobachtungspanzerwagen Sd.Kfz. 251/18 Ausf. A, 1^st Panzer Division (1.Pz.D), France 1940
2. Beobachtungspanzerwagen Sd.Kfz. 251/18 Ausf. A, unknown subdivision, Belarus, 1941
3. Beobachtungspanzerwagen Sd.Kfz. 251/18 Ausf. A1^st Panzer Division (1.Pz.D), Eastern Front 1942

Clearly ICM has invested heavily in making an excellent set of instructions, and the quality shows through. Good job.

What to Consider Before You Start

There is a lot of detail that is visible on the finished model, adding several painting steps during the build which will cause you to deviate from the instructions as needed.

Conversely, other parts cannot be seen on the finished model, so there are several decisions that need to be made up front. There is ample room inside the vehicle (even with all the figures in place) for personal equipment, jerry cans, etc.

Some parts are very small and delicate and care in handling must be taken once they are attached.

The tires can be finished separately and attached at the end of the build.

Otherwise, with few exceptions, everything fits very well.

The Build

Assembly starts with the lower chassis, which is quite detailed and built in layers. The first thirteen steps build the chassis up sufficiently to see the basic shape of things to come. This is where you can choose to open the storage locker doors on the sides, and paint the round exhaust before masking it away. A greatly simplified front steering linkage is attached in the next six steps. These can sometimes be fiddly but ICM’s design is superior here, without sacrificing detail.

Steps 22-32 brings the highly detailed engine together, consisting of 22 parts. You have the option of modeling the vehicle with open engine covers, or sealing the engine in completely under the hood.

The next 17 Steps add detail to the driver’s compartment and interior sides under the map-platform overhang. I spent little time on finishing this area since most of it cannot be seen once the model is completed. Still, ICM provides a nice set of decals for the dashboard in case the modeler wants to address this area. I found that the upper bulkhead strip (Part E22 in Step 48) wanted bow in or out when added to the inside of the roof. I removed a small slice in the middle of the part, gluing both halves together to make it fit correctly.

Parts (A23 and A24 in Steps 49 and 66, and Part E46 in Step 50) do not seem to fit as pictured – in fact I am not sure how they go in. I ended just sticking them where there was space after everything else in those steps was attached.

Steps 55 – 65 cover the assembly of the radio racks. Go slow here – I ran through things too quickly and had to disassemble/reassemble everything again to make things fit right. All my fault, for rushing things. The good news is that you can add the entire assembled (and painted/weathered) rack at the very end of the build – it’s like a little model of its own. The faces of some of the radios can be finished separately and glued on after the frames are painted. Nice.

ICM has gone to great lengths to allow the modeler to open the eight view ports (four to each side, complete with ‘glass’) and several hatches up front as well – a nice start for super-detailers.

Another nine Steps encompass more detail that is added to the interior of the halftrack before the top is put into place – a truly remarkable example of engineering and design. I have built several -251’s before from different manufacturers, and they all pale in comparison to this kit in regard to detail.

The complex design of rear doors on early German halftracks is handled well by ICM. The inner swing-assemblies consist of just two pieces, one to each side. I found attaching these was much easier (after) the doors were in place, instead of how the instructions show in Step 82.

The torsion bars for the interleaved wheels were added next. I could have used some sort of jig to make sure that they were even, but a small ruler sufficed to some degree (mine were not perfect in the end). The running gear fit together well – so many wheels! – and I left off the outer four wheels on each side to assist in painting and weathering.

The Track

As I stated above, the fit of everything, with few exceptions, is excellent. One of those exceptions, unfortunately, was the track. Let me first say, I applaud ICM for providing a set of highly detailed, rubber-band track for this vehicle. The tracks found on German halftracks have a unique design – with rubber pads protruding from the outside of each link, and heavy cleats that line the inside. Those external pads are difficult to reproduce with individual link track and many times come as extra parts that must be lined up and glued on individually. As a result, the decision to use rubber-band track, I think, is a good one.

The problems I had with these particular tracks were with the fit, and with attaching the ends of the track together. No glues would work, period; the unusual shape of the links with attached pads precluded the use of a stapler; and using thread to tie the ends together tended to ‘twist’ the track where connected. What to do.

I ended up placing a small piece of Gorilla Tape to at least six pads on each track, three pads to each side. Once secured, I smoothed on a lump of 5-minute epoxy and let things dry overnight. Once set, I carefully removed the tape and everything held together while I worked it around the drive sprocket and wheels. The track runs held, and the epoxied area on each run was covered up with pigments.

But my challenges did not end there. I had to clip off several of the inner pads of the track around the drive sprocket so I could fit them in under the fenders, and while one track run fit perfectly; the other one was longer – causing open bulges on each end of the port-side running gear. Not a big deal, but enough to knock if out of competition. I looked at the instructions – the wheels could not have been modeled too close together on one side, so this problem was with the track. Overall, however, the issues I had paled in comparison to what I would have to do if these were individual-link track with their accompanying track pads.

Normally, at least with other -251 builds, assembly would end here – but not with ICM’s kit… I still had 23 Steps to go!

With the upper hull and tracks in place, the instructions turned to a myriad of external gear and other detail. This included the pioneer tools, lights, license plate holders, and, uniquely on the /18, the commanders map table overhang up front, distinguishing this mark from other -251’s. The five legs supporting the overhang should be added all at once so you will have time to adjust and seat each leg on the front hood correctly.

ICM gives the modeler two options for finishing the Sd.Kfz. 251/18 – one is with a standard Mg34 and shield up front, or a nice four-piece observation binocular and support base. I chose the latter since it is the real distinguishing feature of this mark along with the overhang.

And then I was done. This little guy was ready for paint.

Painting, Decals and Finish

I decided to paint my -251 in an overall two-tone German Gray scheme with a little color-modulation thrown in to keep things interesting.

Before painting, I made a sticky board of all the parts that were finished separately. These included the eight outer wheels, antenna, rifles, and a canvas rack.

I started by applying a coat of Alclad Black Primer for my dark, primer/pre-shade lacquer coat. I use a dark primer coat to give the plastic some grip, and to fill in the recesses - creating a shadow effect near the flat surface edges and adding depth for subsequent coats to come.

After the primer had degassed, I carefully laid down a graduating layer of AKI Real Colors RC256 Blue Grey. I made sure to go slowly, feathering the bottom sides and hitting the highlighted areas, such as the hood panels and fender sides. I followed this with a camouflage coat of Tamiya XF-63 German Grey to finish the two-tone scheme. I then painted the interior surfaces with AKI Real Colors RC013 Off-White. Once this had dried, I went to work on the detail painting using the following products:

• Seats - Vallejo PA311 New Wood, followed by an enamel wash using AKI Wash for Wood
• Radios – Tamiya XF-63 German Gray racks with XF-25 Light Sea Grey faces.
• Rifles – Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black for the metal parts, Vallejo PA312 Leather Belt for the wood parts.
• Exhaust – AKI Dark Sepia Wash
• Tail Lights - Vallejo 307 Red Tail Light
• Fire Extinguisher – Heavily thinned Tamiya X-7 Red.
• Tires – Mig European Dust Pigment (slurry)
• Pioneer Tools – Tamiya XF-57 Buff and XF-69 NATO Black, followed by an un-thinned oil wash using Abt080 Mig Wash Brown. Once the oil had set, I wiped most of it off using Q-tips.

Once satisfied, I laid down a coat of Alclad Aqua-Gloss acrylic to prepare the surfaces for washes and decals.

I applied the decals using Red and Blue MicroSol/MicroSet without any problems. The ICM decals are very thin and separate from the backing effortlessly. Once the decals were dry, I applied an overall wash using AKI AK325 Dark Umber and AK324 Dark Sepia. Inside and out. When I got to the wheels, I laid the vehicle on its side to allow the wash to dry evenly. I then added rust and rain marks using AKI Enamel Rust Streaks wash. I then shot the whole vehicle with VMS Satin Varnish to kill any shine left over.

As a last step, I gave the vehicle a ‘road-dusting’ coat of Vallejo Model Air Light Brown, Mig Rust and Concrete pigments.

I finished the vehicle by attaching the clear headlight lenses and antenna with Mig Ultra Glue. Done!

Conclusion

ICM’s recent offerings are a lot of fun to build, and this kit is no exception.

While challenging due to the number of small parts, the molding is crisp and everything fits. Once I figured out how I could connect the vinyl track, the rest was just one step after another. ICM deserves a lot of credit for such a great effort in engineering and design here – and they get it done without resorting to photo-etch parts, a big plus in my book.

One more point to make

ICM has built a solid reputation for producing excellent models. Sturdy and intelligent boxing to protect the sprues; consistent use of hidden connection points and modeler-assists; design of assemblies that other manufacturers are challenged by (such as the unusual tracks on German halftracks); and superb instructions.

Normally, for these reasons, I would have recommended this kit for all modelers, regardless of experience level, but the high count of small parts and intricate assemblies cause me to suggest that only modelers with a few builds under their belt should attempt a go at this kit. That said, I managed to muddle through the challenges myself, so if you go slow and test-fit the parts, anyone can create a nice replica of this interesting little halftrack.

Accomplishing all of this, while literally living in a dangerous and deadly war zone, in truly inspiring. This small, highly productive, family-owned and operated business deserves our support.

I would like to thank ICM for providing this kit for review, and to IPMS USA for giving me the opportunity to build it.