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Review Author
Rick Bellanger
Published on
Company
Master Model
Scale
1/32
MSRP
$7.50

I have built several 1/32nd scale Phantoms, both Revell and the Tamiya versions, and have found the weakest and most fragile of all the parts are the pitot tubes and the tail probes (AOA). Thankfully, Master Model has come along with a very nice set of finely cast and turned items to replace these items.

In the long nose version set you get three replacement detail parts to fit the F-4E, F, G, EJ, RF-4B, C, E and EJ version of the Phantom. You get a pitot tube for the pointy end of the nose, RAM air inlet for the tail, and an angle of attack (AOA) probe for the starboard side of the front fuselage. All appear to be turned brass of the highest quality.

Review Author
Clarence Wentzel
Published on
Company
Albatros Productions, Ltd.
MSRP
$11.99

This bimonthly magazine is a must for modelers (and aviation enthusiasts) interested in World War One aircraft. The magazine is published by Albatros Productions Ltd. in the UK, who also publish the great line of Windsock Datafiles and Specials.

The headline article in this issue covers an overview of various reproductions of actual World War One Aircraft. These include the OEF D.III, built in Austria, and the RAF RE8, the Albatros D.Va, the Fokker E.V, the RAF FE2b, and the Sopwith Pup, all built in New Zealand. Lots of great color photos of the aircraft are shown, including some valuable detail shots.

The next major article covers the scratchbuild of a 1/72 scale model of the Dornier RS.III Giant Flying Boat. This is a big, complex model with lots of rigging and struts, but the article does a great job of explaining how everything was done.

Review Author
Clarence Wentzel
Published on
Company
Quickboost
Scale
1/72
MSRP
$4.25

The Su-33 Flanker D is an all-weather carrier-based air defense fighter based on the Su-27. The airplane had a production run of 24 units. Hasegawa has produced a kit of this interesting aircraft for modelers. As usual, Quickboost has added several items to improve the accuracy of the basic Su-33 Flanker D kit.

This part is a corrected Control Lever for the model. The attached photo shows the excellent level of detail of the Quickboost part. Three copies of the lever are provided. The control lever is the correct shape for the model and is interchangeable with the kit part. It is molded in brownish-gray colored resin and is smooth, seamless, and bubble free.

I highly recommend this product if you want a really superior-looking model. Since this part is interchangeable with the kit parts, it can be recommended for all levels of modelers.

Review Author
Jim Pearsall
Published on
Company
Master Model
Scale
1/72
MSRP
$5.00

Here’s another of those little add-ons that can really make your project look good. It’s just one part, but with very little fiddling you can replace the kit part with a really good looking brass part. Airfix, Hasegawa, Heller, and Zvezda all have 1/72 MiG-23s, but I’ve only built the Hasegawa Flogger. Twice. Once as DDR (East German) and one Czech.

After I pulled the DDR plane off the shelf and washed all that dust off of it, I checked the pitot. I had replaced the Hasegawa plastic pitot with part of a straight pin, much more durable than the plastic part.

It was the work of only a few minutes to pull out the pin, ream the hole slightly, and insert the new pitot. It fits nicely, and with just a dot of CA, it stays in place.

After an application of flat black, the new pitot really looks good. I might say it looks sharp, as the point really is sharp. Be careful handling the plane, as you can puncture yourself with the new pitot.

Review Author
Dan Mackay
Published on
Company
Fine Molds
Scale
1/72
MSRP
$32.00

I am presently working on the new Airfix A6M2 Zero right now; the Fine Molds 1/72 IJN seatbelt set came just in time for me to incorporate them into the cockpit. This new seatbelt set comes four in the package, molded in ABS plastic, and can be formed to the contours of the seat. Be very careful when bending these belts as they can be broken easily, I used brass rod of various diameters to bend the belts. I started by using a larger diameter rod first and gently rolled the belt around it, using progressively smaller diameter rods until I got the desired bend. Once the belts are bent as desired, they keep their shape. I used superglue to fix the belts to the seat with no problems.