Review

The Fairchild Republic A-10 Thunderbolt II is so ugly, it’s beautiful. It is clearly an example of function over form. The A-10 is designed to maximize the pilot protection with a titanium bathtub cockpit and heavily armored cockpit glass. The airframe design has redundant control systems and high mounted engines to provide maximum survivability when damaged, and also to reduce the risk of engine damage. The book starts with the fly-offs between manufacturers and the selection of Fairchild Republic as the design winner. In response to pilots’ feedback for a big gun, the General Electric GAU-8 Avenger 30 mm cannon was selected, with a rate of fire at 3900 rpm.

Windsock Datafiles from Albatros Productions are considered by many to be the most comprehensive reference/historical publications available for those who build WW I scale aircraft models. Each volume focuses on a specific aircraft and can be counted on to provide a thorough study of the subject. The most recent volume, Windsock Datafile No. 159, details the history of the AD Flying Boats.

The Instruction Sheet

The instruction sheet is typical Hasegawa – that is, the instructions are free of any errors (at least that I noticed), easy to interpret, and with clearly labeled paint call-outs and part call-outs. The thirteen construction steps are on three pages, decal placement and painting guides are on two pages, aircraft history is on a single page, and a parts guide and color call-out list is on a single page.

For the most part, you can jump around on the instructions from step to step. We all do it. Not to worry, but study the assembly process for the prop or you’ll end up having a bit of a mess on your hands. Do not install the blades into the spinner until the spinner has been attached to the spinner shaft. Also, the placement of the six exhaust stacks is unique – the sequence is according to the part number of the stack. Start with the stack farthest aft on each side and work toward the front of the aircraft.

Once I had the fuselage sealed up, it was time to build the engine. The engine is 46 pieces and the fit is excellent. One note – the parts and order of addition is specific. Also, take time and make sure alignment is good. The intake and exhaust pipes coming off the back of the front cylinders needed to be aligned where they slide over the exhaust pipes I mounted to the firewall in part 1. One thing missing was the ignition wires. I used 32-gauge wire and added them based on Internet pictures. Once the engine was complete, the front cowling and rings were attached. These were a little fiddly and support the remainder of the cowling, and need to be glued on firmly. The contact points are small, so make sure things are square and glued tightly. Lastly, there is the choice of open or closed cowl flaps. I chose closed for this one (yes, I WILL build more), and since I was building option A, there were also a few special instructions.

Eduard’s original detail sets consisted of photo etch brass to be assembled and painted by the builder. More recently, they started producing pre-painted seatbelts and other details (still made out of brass). This is the next evolution in the ever-expanding world of Eduard’s accessories line.

Eduard’s #32771 set includes pre-cut belts made out of a fabric material and a photo etched hardware fret that assemble into one set of seatbelts designed for use in USAAF aircraft (primarily fighters). I believe this was originally a product developed by HGW (their logo is stamped on the fabric fret).