I like the P-39 series aircraft as they are unique and not flown in combat as they were designed. Like a lot of early war aircraft, they were used because newer models weren’t available. As such, the P-39s flew in combat in the Pacific, and the Russians particularly liked them for ground attack. Like the aircraft, my experience with this model looks good from afar, but far from good.

Reference the Arma Hobby website for this P-39Q.

Bell P-39Q Airacobra Fighter Aircraft Model in 1/48 Scale

New Arma Hobby 2024 molds

The model includes a code to download a 3D printer file with detailed cockpit accessories:

• Two types of seats with harnesses
• Machine gun locks
• Trim control knob
• Oil cooler shutter

What's in the Box?

• Sprues allowing for the assembly of multiple aircraft versions straight from the box.
• Cartograf decals with three painting variants.
• Masks for the canopy and wheels.
• Steel balls to balance the aircraft's nose.

Colour and Marking Variants

• P-39Q-1 Airacobra, 46th Fighter Squadron, 15th Fighter Group, Makin, Gilbert Islands, late 1943.
• P-39Q-10 Airacobra, 363rd Fighter Squadron, 357th Fighter Group, pilot Lt. Clarence “BUD” Anderson, Oroville, California, October 1943.
• P-39Q-15 Airacobra, 68th GIAP, 5th GIAD, winter 1944-45.

Additional detail on this kit is also available on the Arma Hobby News Blog.

Arma Hobby is known for their attention to detail, fine molding, and engineering. Upon opening the side box flap and pulling out the sturdy tray, there were three light gray sprues, a clear sprue, masks for windows and wheels, a Cartograph decal sheet for the three marking schemes, 3D printed parts for main gear doors and air cooler vents, three stainless steel ball weights, and option to download a 3D print file for two seats with seatbelts, trim wheels, and throttles. As I recently purchased a 3D printer, these were among the first 3D parts I printed, and I was not disappointed. The details provided in the box and available as free 3D print downloads are exquisite.

Construction is laid out over 32 steps and12 pages. The choices are marked for the respective versions – American or Russian service, clean, bomb or external fuel tank. The instructions were followed throughout, with the following notes:

Step 3: The instrument panel includes great decal detail that really looks the part

Step 6: Decal seat belts are provided in three parts; can be skipped if using the outstanding 3D download (or use the decal seatbelts on the pilot)

Step 8: Pay particular attention to the alignment of the cockpit assembly as this will affect the remaining fuselage with its extremely tight fit. At the IPMS Nats in Madison this year, I attended a seminar taught by Ed Baroth. He wisely advocates for not only reading ahead in the instructions, but also count the number of attachment points (often in subsequent steps) to ensure parts fit at later stages. Thank goodness I heeded this advice as the model can quickly go sideways on you at this stage.

Step 9: Three stainless steel ball weights are provided to keep the P-39Q from being a tail sitter.

Step 11: There is an Errata part (A16) that is swapped with the kit part on the sprue.There are also air outlets that are incorrectly aligned on the fuselage; simply cut them off and attach the Errata 3D parts. Also, if using the radio (American versions), drill out the holes at this stage. Pay particular attention to the cockpit tub fitting into the slight indented circles on both sides of the fuselage. Dry fit, dry fit, dry fit, to avoid issues that I note later.

Step 12: Holes to drill for the .50 caliber gun pods and centerline pylon for the bomb or drop tank.

Step 13: Fill in the wing mounted machine gun holes (two per wing) as the P-39Q didn’t have machine guns in the wings (mounted in pods that are assembled in Step 24 and attached in Step 27.

Step 16: Part 59 is the top engine cowl and fits in well. For some reason, this became a big part of my problem with the kit.As the cockpit wasn’t perfectly set in place, the fuselage halves didn’t quite line up and the cowl made this noticeable. I used Tamiya Extra Thin, and that separated. Next was regular CA, then CA gel, and I finally had to get medieval on the now brittle plastic and use two-part epoxy followed by lots of sanding.Ed Baroth’s advice kept ringing in my head, and I should have followed the parts attachment further into the instructions. Hopefully, this is just a case of my headspace and timing, and not a reflection of the kit.

Steps 16-17: More details to cut/erase/sand for the P-39Q. I am happy that there are other P-39 variants in the Arma Hobby pipeline.

Step 19: The main landing gear, as well as the nose gear, have fantastic weighted tires.

Step 21: This step is for the main landing gear doors. 3D parts are provided in the kit to replace the plastic parts, if so desired. If the aircraft is to be displayed in flight, then the main gear doors provide a good starting point and template to scratch build the landing gear parts that are retracted inside the aircraft while on the ground.

Steps 22-23: Lots of focus on the alignment of the nose wheel for a reason; pay attention and study the details.

Step 25: Nose wheel front gear cover – for inflight, this is short, so it is a good place to start on the scratch-built part. Step 27 has the left and right nose wheel doors; once those are in place, then a styrene blank can be used to complete the nose wheel gear door. I had the same problem here as in Step 16 with glue adhering the plastic pieces together.I once again had to resort to two-part epoxy and sanding.

Step 26: Assembly of the single bomb and/or drop tank if so desired.

Step 28: The 37mm cannon is prominent in the nose. In the instructions, it is marked A19, in the Errata it is A18. A quick drill to hollow it out really makes the difference.

Step 29: The “car doors” are provided as clear plastic. Use the provided masks to mask the windows, then paint the interior color and apply decals. They look great once assembled.

Step 30: If the model was assembled correctly, the doors and canopy should fit perfectly. As stated, mine was not and there was some creative language and copious filler to make the canopy line up. Thank goodness for the canopy masks.

Step 31: I used Quickboost P-39 Airacobra Mk.1 Exhausts as they were more detailed. They were reviewed earlier here https://reviews.ipmsusa.org/review/p-39-airacobra-mki-exhaust

As a second-time Arma Hobby builder, I was concerned with the construction of this kit. The cockpit tub needs to be assembled exactly right and precisely fit into the two fuselage halves. Mess up this alignment and be prepared to test your modeling skills. The kit has exquisite detail and is well molded.

As I recently visited Tonopah Army Airfield, I really wanted to build a P-39 that had been stationed there. Fortunately, the kit’s second marking option was Lieutenant Clarence “Bud” Anderson’s P-39Q-10 that spent some time at Tonopah. As a part of the 357^th Fighter Group, squadron colors were assigned: White for the 362^nd; Red for the 363^rd; and Yellow for the 364^th. There is a lot of debate about where the colors were painted. The instructions show just a stripe on the cowl behind the propeller hub, some show a horizontal stripe on the tail, and some show the tail and horizontal stabilizers painted. I chose the cowl and tail stripes. The Cartograph decals laid down nicely.

I remain one of the weird modelers that likes to display aircraft in flight. It’s a shame that model manufacturers don’t typically provide the option for wheels up or down. The kit wheels are beautifully weighted, and I am sure that model would look great on its wheels; however, for an in-flight aircraft, the wheels up require plastic surgery for the gear doors to be closed (the kit parts were used as templates, along with reference photos, to get the newly constructed gear doors to fit, along with some sheet styrene to make parts of the landing gear doors that are retracted while on the ground. Another disappointment is that kit manufacturers don’t include pilots (especially seated), so a seated USAAF pilot was sourced, and 3D printed so it wasn’t a remotely piloted (although phantom or ghost seems appropriate as it is the Halloween season) aircraft.

This is a gorgeous model aircraft kit that turns out beautifully. For its finicky fit and amazing detail, I recommend this kit for very experienced/advanced modelers. For beginners, this model will be a challenging experience, especially with all the canopy glass, doors, and fitment issues (I still managed to get overspray inside the cockpit). This was my second Arma Hobby kit, and it was much more challenging than my first. I am looking forward to my third Arma Hobby model so I can break the tie.

Profuse thanks to Arma Hobby and IPMS/USA for providing the review sample.