The Royal Aircraft Factory Farman Experimental 2b was an update to the FE.2a “Gun Carrier” that flew in January, 1915. This basic airframe served from 1915 through the end of hostilities in November, 1918, being used as a fighter, bomber, and reconnaissance aircraft. It is one of the best pusher designs to fly in the Great War. Wingnut Wings has done the WWI aircraft modeling community a great service by producing this kit, especially in the quality molding and engineering resulting in an easy (relatively) build with excellent fit and detail.

As you know, many aircraft modelers stay away from WWI models because of the rigging involved in most of them. The non-rigged or little-rigged aircraft are more popular, like the Fokker D.VII and the Dr.I. However, following some simple procedures and using the right rigging materials, rigging is not a big deal. For this model, Wingnut Wings recommends a combination of monofilament – they use fishing line or fly fishing leader material which is more flexible – and EZ Line. I support these recommendations. Monofilament provides needed (and planned-for in the engineering) support for the two long tail booms. As we’ll see, the booms have been molded to enable the monofilament to be threaded more easily through the assembly to rig the booms. Military Illustrated Modeler, Aircraft Issue, March 2012, Issue 11 has a fine build article on this kit by Dave Johnson of Wingnut Wings that details this rigging procedure. I plan to use it in this build.

The EZ-Line is an outstanding answer to the inter-wing rigging question. On kits that really don’t need wing rigging for structural support – and that would be most of the newer kits from Eduard and Wingnut Wings, for example – EZ-Line is a better alternative to wire, monofilament, or stretched sprue. It is easy to work with, attaches readily with CA, and, most importantly to me, is VERY flexible. Being a ham-handed modeler, I always break something off during a build and, if the model involves rigging, I can be sure that one or more rigging wires will go when my brain goes into neutral and I grab something the wrong way. Nothing like having a fully-rigged biplane and inadvertently snapping off a couple of rigging wires between the wings and having to figure out how to repair that. This seldom happens with EZ Line, the stuff is so flexible and forgiving.

For a detailed breakdown of the kit parts and sprues, along with some excellent model and archive reference photos, visit the Wingnut Wings site (listed above). You can also see the outstanding instruction and reference book Wingnut Wings includes with each of their kits. These truly set the standard for modeling kit documentation and all others pale in comparison. Eduard instructions are excellent, but lack the color and reference photos and information included with Wingnut Wings instructions.

I began with the Beardmore engine. It’s somewhat unique in WWI inline engines in that it was made with a great deal of copper and brass; it sits up in the back, very visible on the aircraft, and according to period photos it ran very dirty, leaking fluid at every orifice. This gives the modeler a chance to work at getting a “used” appearance. I had no issues with the assembly by following the instructions.

I used Model Master Aluminum, Gunze Copper, and Andrea Brass paints, with Vallejo white for the plugs. I had intended to wire the plugs to the magnetos but, after drilling the wire looms to accept small wires, attempting to get the plug ends to attach to the plugs, and run through the tightly-spaced cylinders, I decided to stop while I was ahead.

I did build as much of the engine in subassemblies as possible before painting each of them. I then sprayed a layer of Dullcote over the entire engine and set about dirtying it up with Tamiya Smoke, oil paints, and some Tamiya clear orange, red and greens to give the copper a more weathered look.

Once the engine was done, I turned to the main cockpit and nacelle build. This involved preparing the pieces that are to represent wood by removing those parts from the trees while leaving the sprue attachment gates on some parts to serve as handles for painting. I first sprayed the parts with Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow and let them dry overnight. Then I overpainted the Tamiya XF-59 with Windsor and Newton oils in yellow ochre and burnt umber with a round sable brush. I took a flat-edged brush with stiffer fibers and dampened it in turpenoid, removing most of the turpenoid on a paper towel, then drew the brush in long strokes over the previously painted areas, removing much of the oil paint but leaving fine lines in the remaining paint to suggest wood grain. You don’t want to end up with big lines (large grains) because at this scale, wood grain is very subtle. I went for variations in the wood by touching a few spots of darker oil and, in places, tiny dots of red oil, then blending them in with a soft brush.

Once dry, I will coat the oil with a dilute mixture of Tamiya clear orange to achieve a varnish-like effect on the wood. I think this really brings out the wood effect and brightens it up, making it look more realistic. You can also see the way Wingnut Wings does wood grain effects in the tips section of their website.

Next up will be the cockpit build, including the first rigging internal to it.

I’d like to thank Wingnut Wings for supplying the kit and IPMS/USA for allowing me to review it.