Thank you to Master Model and the IPMS Reviewer Corps for the privilege of reviewing this excellent replacement part set offered by Master Model in the Sea Master Series for 350-scale ship models. The replacement masts will add a crisp eye-catching detail in a highly visible part of any modern ship model. Master Model is continuing an excellent line of replacement brass parts for ship models.

The zipper closure package has 4 smoothly tapered, turned brass masts in a variety of sizes. A small spec sheet is included. The masts taper evenly and symmetrically from the base upward to the tip. Each mast is 100 mm long, with mast base/tip diameters of 2.2/0.7 mm, 2.5/0.8 mm, 2.8/0.9 mm, and 3.0/1.0 mm. This size range is effective for larger-size modern ships. The brass has a nice smooth sheen, with no sign of cutting oils. A major bonus of these masts is the rigid character of the brass. Temperature changes and subsequent rigging tension are much less likely to bend the masts.

To most readers of a certain age, the Falklands Conflict was a watershed event which tested the resolve, capabilities, and persistence of the Royal Navy and the Nation. It was a bloody affair at sea; the Royal Navy suffered immensely and yet still prevailed. The loss of the Type 42 HMS Sheffield to Exocet missiles shocked naval professionals and called into serious question Royal Navy air defense capabilities. Other air defense ships suffered as well. The County Class ships – HMS Antrim and HMS Glamorgan (which survived an Exocet hit) were damaged and another Type 42, HMS Coventry, was lost. The conflict also highlighted inherent design issues with the Type 42 and Royal Navy damage control readiness.

Academy is re-releasing its well-known 1/700 Titanic, this time in a MPC (Multi-Color-Parts) format with an LED Light Set. Upon opening the box you will find 6 sprues (white, tan, black, brown, bronze and orange), plus the hull –in two parts, black and red hull- and the main ship structure, molded in white.

Construction of this kit is simple and broken down into 24 steps. You basically assemble the main ship structure, bow and aft deck, plus the hull as main subassemblies. The instructions are good and easy to follow and the fit is really good.

Please note this is not a “snap-tite” kit, you will need glue and many of the parts are actually pretty small so this is not a model for kids. I do believe a young modeler could assemble this kit with some adult supervision.

I have never heard much about the British Special Boat Service and was pleased to hear of this book as it tells of the SBS exploits that were never really told fully before.

The book tells the story of the SBS from its conception from within the Special Air Service (SAS) in 1942 through to the end of World War II when it was disbanded. The story covers the missions and history of the unit, its men and the major impact they had on the war in and around the Mediterranean. Like the SAS the SBS were very highly trained and ruthless. They were experts in Guerilla warfare and exploiting the Germans weaknesses and local country side whenever they could.

The SBS used hit and run tactics on German airbases and installation in and around the Mediterranean to help reduce the forces available to attack the Allies as they fought in North Africa and Italy. They were used intensively in actions on the Greek islands to hinder the German war effort.

Merit quietly issued a 1/35 X-craft submarine and once I got my hands on it, I was impressed with both the molding and size of the kit. Still, there was some room for add-ons and improvements and Eduard has issued a photoetch sheet to help address some of the issues.

Eduard’s sheet is composed of a single sheet with 30 superb parts. The sheet addresses the hatches on the top of the ship by replacing 6 individual parts and adding detail and texture. A little removal of the hinges and these go on smoothly. There are slight folds on four of the parts but this is easy to accomplish with a new #11 blade.

Next, the kit propeller is undersized and Eduard uses the kit hub but has you wrap three individual blades around a dowel and add them to the hub. This takes a little patience but the result is a larger and more accurate prop.