This is the fourth volume in the Cold War Berlin series. The previous three volumes previously reviewed are here (and are worth it for the reviewers personal ties to Berlin):
Instant Glue from Green Stuff World is a single component cyanoacrylate glue that is advertised to set in 5–10 seconds. In my use, I found the glue to set almost instantaneously. The glue is best used with dissimilar materials including plastic, photoetch, rubber, metal, wood, and ceramics. When dispensed, the adhesive quickly reacts with the moisture in the air, so drying time is affected by humidity. In drier climates, the glue will take longer to set. The glue sets so quickly that I found it best to hold the parts together in the correct position and then apply the glue. Applying glue to the parts and then placing them does not allow any time for positioning. The CA glue seems strong as I did not have any problems with photoetch parts coming loose after the glue set.
You can tell when you are holding this tool that you are handling a quality tool. The blade is elliptical in shape and VERY sharp. It is protected by a flexible tip. The whole tool measures 5 inches in length with the blade making up 2mm of that.
The tool comes in a small vinyl pouch which protects the tool and you. The handle is plastic and feels good in the hand. The blade is made up of hardened steel with an elliptical shaped tip. It is good for cutting and scraping. Other possible uses are removing pin marks, making grooved lines, etching a louver into plastic, creating small vents, opening small intakes, etc. For figure modelers, this tool is great for sculpting folds into clothing. I’m sure there are other uses that I didn’t think of.
Finding the center of a project can be frustrating, to say the least. You could eyeball it, but let’s face it, I’ve never had great luck at it. Enter this cool tool from 3D Peco and UMM-USA.
This tool is easy to use. Simply slide the item onto the apex of the tool. Make a line. Rotate the part or the tool and make another line. Repeat as necessary. Where they all meet is the exact center. Then just drill your hole. Simple and easy to do.
This is another tool which I didn’t realize I needed until I got it. There are various sizes available. If you scratch build, this is an essential tool. You won’t figure out how you lived without it once you use it.
Highly recommended
Thanks to UMM-USA and IPMS/USA for the review copy. You can obtain yours directly from UMM-USA. Let them know you saw it on the IPMS/USA website.
This kit comes with nine sprues of weapons (two each are duplicates):
ICM has an expansive line of these acrylic sets and I was anxious to try them out. To see how they apply and what sheen they have as they dry, I pulled out a Saber-Tooth Tiger to paint for my son’s D&D games. Getting started I applied a dab of paint to a strip of white Styrene to determine how the colors would dry. Everything matched the color swatch on the box except the light flesh. It was definitely lighter than the swatch. For the tiger, I darkened it up with the deep brown for several layers. I also struggled to create pink. Originally given the pig on the box, I thought this would be possible. However, I couldn’t get this color with the orange. I intended to use it for the inside of the tiger’s jaws. Doing a figure gave me the opportunity to try a few different styles of paint application. Straight out of the bottle the paint fills the brush and applies smoothly. I didn't have any issues with the paint drying too quickly or globbing up along the edge of the brush strokes.
ICM hobby company has provided the IPMS/USA reviewer corps with a six (6) bottle acrylic paint set based on the colors of the Napoleonic Wars.
In the Box
The paint set contains six 12ml bottles with nontoxic water based acrylic paints. The following colors are provided:
- Deep Orange (1006)
- Deep Red (1007)
- Deep Green (1009)
- Gold (1017)
- Off White (1028)
- Dark Blue (1077)
Straight out of the bottle the paint viscosity is thick and purposely prepared for brush painting. The instructions do recommend thinning 40-60% with water or thinner for airbrushing. All surfaces are recommended to be primed prior to painting. Volume wise, the paint takes up about 70% of the bottle and has “room” to add thinner if so desired.
Note: the bottles are not the usual dropper-style (Vallejo) but a twist off cap and a large opening to allow brushes easier access.
Paint colors used by Japan during WWII are elusive and always seem to be up for debate. ICM has added a set of Imperial Japanese Navy colors to their range of acrylic paint sets.
This set is packaged in a small rectangular box with images of the colors printed on the front. The back of the box features a profile of a Japanese ship with color call outs. This set includes five 12ml bottles of color and 1 17ml bottle of clear gloss. The bottles have twist-off caps and the opening is big enough to allow a popsicle stick to be used to mix the paint.
The colors in this set are as follows:
This is the first Then and Now book that I have read, and I am hooked. The period photographs and history are supplemented with after the battle photographs. The research that goes into finding these key places in photographs is amazing and really adds to the story with the human element of seeing the location years later and imagining the scene before you.
Casemate Publishers website describes this book as such,
I came back to the hobby during COVID. One thing I hated, and still hate doing is sanding putty.I am just not that good at it. I am always looking for something to help me. The UMM-USA series of sanding bars are one solution to a gritty problem.
The bars come in various sizes; fine, small, medium, large, extra-large and extra-extra-large. I reviewed the Extra-Large version. They come as a six-sided polished aluminum bar, with the ends being pointed.
My initial take on the block was one of curiosity, a large flat good for sanding large flat surfaces, or so I thought; something most aircraft and ship models do not have. I then took a closer look and realized that the angled/pointed ends would be great for small tight surfaces, or if a very narrow area needed to be sanded, which is how I have been using it. Ironically, my son printed a sandbag wall and used the long flat bottom to clean it up.
