Chipping is storytelling at its core, which is why we start our modeling journey developing these skills to foster a broad range of looks … Michael Rinaldi

TG/01 Chipping is the first book in a new series of technical guides by Michael Rinaldi in partnership with AMMO by MiG. The book is packed with excellent photos illustrating the weathering process of reductive chipping on scale models. Step by step photos illustrate the chipping process, and diagrams clearly describe the layering of paints.

Rinaldi Studio Press has announced a subsequent book in the series, TG/02 on Oil Paint Rendering (OPR).

This Chipping technical guide by Rinaldi goes into great detail on reductive chipping, which is the process of removing the top layers of paint to reveal other colors below. This process can create chips in finish paint showing rust or primer below, add areas of wear, battle damage, weather, and other environmental effects on vehicles.

Tools-You can never have enough. You don’t need it until you need it. With the return of Squadron they are developing their own line of modeling products. In this case it is high quality sprue cutters. Squadron has developed THREE different types of sprue cutters, each for a specific purpose.

For this review, let’s look at the top of the line, the High Precision Sprue Cutter, Stock # 12103. This particular cutter comes in a vacuformed sleeve with a cardboard backing. Inside of the sleeve are obviously the cutters but also a quality leather pouch that protects the cutting surfaces when not in use. It is even labelled with the cool Squadron logo.

First off, my apologies to Jon Vojtech, the generous genius behind the UMM product line. Jon graciously provided the Reviewers Corps with a nice selection of new products at the National Convention in Hampton VA, this year, and I am very late in submitting my review.

If you need to make extremely fine cuts in a part – plastic, soft metal, 3D resin, or cast resin material – this tool will do the trick. The blade itself is razor thin (sorry…), coming in at 0.1mm or about 0.004”. Using a blade this thin means applying gentle pressure, letting the very fine teeth do the work – push too hard and you’re likely to bend or snap the blade.

The handle is 3D printed filament, and incorporates a recess for the included Allen wrench that’s used to change blades. And speaking of that, the handle will accommodate a number of blades including the UBT12 Medium Rough Razor Saw.

This handheld tool is designed to get into tight spaces like wing roots, intakes, or other tight or hard to reach spaces. It has four resin-like tips which are to be superglued to the tip of the tool, and sandpaper is to be attached to the tip with double-sided tape. I have to admit that at first this seemed like a pain to set up, but it is really very quick and easy. I tested the tip change out by removing the attached tip and prying it off with a hobby knife, and it came off cleanly and in one piece. I then glued on another tip, the one with the triangular point. I attached a small piece of sandpaper with double-sided tape, and then trimmed the sandpaper to match the tip with my hobby knife, and the sander was ready to use. As advertised, it works well in awkward spots like wing roots, as shown in the accompanying photos. I also find it useful in cleaning up areas to be glued where paint needs to be carefully removed.

I am really enjoying the ICM acrylic paint sets I have added to my repertoire. This is a basic color set that lends itself to many uses, not just wargaming. The “DEEP” colors of red (ICM #1007), blue (1010), and yellow (1003) are very versatile. They are your 3 basic colors, but they are beautifully bright! I wanted to highlight how each of these 3 basic colors reacts with the common primer colors — black, grey, and white. On the black, I used deep red. It was basically a washout, requiring multiple coats to give smooth coverage. I would not recommend the black with these colors. I used the deep blue on the grey, and it was beautiful with just 1 coat. The color covered well and smoothly, and popped! Of course, I used the deep yellow on the white, as I always use yellow over whit (or pink) for the best coverage, and vibrancy of the color. I achieved a nice, smooth coverage after only 2 coats, which is almost unheard of when painting (especially brush painting) with yellow.