This handheld tool is designed to get into tight spaces like wing roots, intakes, or other tight or hard to reach spaces. It has four resin-like tips which are to be superglued to the tip of the tool, and sandpaper is to be attached to the tip with double-sided tape. I have to admit that at first this seemed like a pain to set up, but it is really very quick and easy. I tested the tip change out by removing the attached tip and prying it off with a hobby knife, and it came off cleanly and in one piece. I then glued on another tip, the one with the triangular point. I attached a small piece of sandpaper with double-sided tape, and then trimmed the sandpaper to match the tip with my hobby knife, and the sander was ready to use. As advertised, it works well in awkward spots like wing roots, as shown in the accompanying photos. I also find it useful in cleaning up areas to be glued where paint needs to be carefully removed.

I am really enjoying the ICM acrylic paint sets I have added to my repertoire. This is a basic color set that lends itself to many uses, not just wargaming. The “DEEP” colors of red (ICM #1007), blue (1010), and yellow (1003) are very versatile. They are your 3 basic colors, but they are beautifully bright! I wanted to highlight how each of these 3 basic colors reacts with the common primer colors — black, grey, and white. On the black, I used deep red. It was basically a washout, requiring multiple coats to give smooth coverage. I would not recommend the black with these colors. I used the deep blue on the grey, and it was beautiful with just 1 coat. The color covered well and smoothly, and popped! Of course, I used the deep yellow on the white, as I always use yellow over whit (or pink) for the best coverage, and vibrancy of the color. I achieved a nice, smooth coverage after only 2 coats, which is almost unheard of when painting (especially brush painting) with yellow.

It doesn’t matter if you are scratch building, converting, or just adding detail to a military vehicle model, you need scale nuts and bolts. Sometimes, you need a lot of them. I have tried just about every technique for making bolt heads with varying success. Salami slicing hex rods resulted in varying thickness and sloping bolt heads. Chiseling off Styrene bolt heads works; but it is difficult to keep them level. I’ve found it nearly impossible to properly position resin nuts and bolts regardless of the type of CA used. So, I was thrilled to get an RP Toolz Hexagonal Punch and Die Set. This tool allows you to punch bolt heads from Styrene strips resulting in perfectly uniform thickness.

John and UMM-USA have been a godsend for those that like to scratch build by supplying tools and parts to make life easier for all of us as well as giving us access in the US to suppliers not as easily found. This selection is three styles of soft lead wiring perfect for ignition harnesses, wiring jets or anything that might need some kind of wiring or plumbing. The sets come in three types- round 0.4mm, half round and flat at 0.4mm.

Each set comes with about 20 pieces by 140mm for these sizes. Many different sizes are also available. I love the size consistency as the size being reviewed is about the right size for 1/48^th scale ignition wires on a radial engine. I grabbed an old one and installed a couple wires and they look great. I also made a quick (and sloppy) trial for a wiring harness using the flat stock as the wraps and it looks good for a couple minutes work.

Highly recommended for all builders looking for that little upgrade or scratch building.

I have been using UMM razor saws for years to cut resin and plastic with great results. Since I build larger resin figures, sometimes the fine blades and smaller saw blades take a while to cut through. Also, with the blade being sandwiched in the middle, you have a limited depth to cut. The new ultimate razor saw addresses many of these issues. First, it is a double-edged blade with course on one side and fine on the other so you have options. Second, with the blade being attached on one side, you have much more depth.

One feature that is very cool is that the blade is attached by an allen wrench and that is attached to the handle, easy to remove and use and then stow back so no looking for the wrench.

For a trial, I had some T Facto Godzilla fins I was working on and the attachment points were beefy. They cut off perfectly. Once off, I needed to remove the stub and again, perfect. I must also say, the handle is very comfortable and gives a great grip.