ICM has done it again with a great combination kit with two iconic German tanks. This boxing Panzerwaffe Steel Cats - Panther and King Tiger Ausf B (DS3524) has two complete kits. From the ICM web-page for this boxed set:

Panzerwaffe Steel Cats

Before the start of World War II, the tank forces of the Third Reich (Panzerwaffe) were mainly equipped with light and medium tanks. The results of battles on the Eastern Front in 1941 showed that to successfully counter Soviet tanks, new types of armored vehicles with powerful guns and thick armor were needed. At the beginning of 1943, production of the PzKpfw V Panther tank with a 75-mm long-barreled 7.5 cm KwK42 L/70 gun began. The weight of this tank, depending on the modification, ranged from 43 to 45.5 tons. This tank was classified as both medium and heavy based on various criteria. Many military historians consider it one of the best tanks of World War II. The PzKpfw V also served as the basis for the Jagdpanther tank destroyer and the Bergepanther recovery vehicle. In the winter of 1944, production of another tank, the PzKpfw VI Ausf B Königstiger, developed by Henschel under the leadership of E. Aders, began. This tank had heavy armor and a long-barreled 88-mm gun. Its armor-piercing shell was capable of hitting any Allied tank at a distance of 2000 meters or more. The PzKpfw. VI Ausf.B tanks served in heavy tank battalions until the end of the war, with a total of 479 Königstiger produced between 1944 and 1945.

Both kits have been produced by ICM separately. The PzKpfw V Panther Ausf D (Kit No. 35361) was first produced in 2005 and was one of the newer kits made by the newly relaunched ICM in 2003. The PzKpfw VI Ausf. B Königstiger with Henschel Turret (late production) (Kit No. 35363) was first produced in 2016. Neither kit includes an interior, but an interior is available for the Königstiger as Kit No. 35364 (with individual track links). As ICM hasn’t produced a PzKpfw VI Tiger I, it makes sense to combine both these “cats” in a single boxing, as the name suggests.

Upon opening the cover, there is a reinforced white inner box that does a good job of protecting both kits in their respective plastic bags. There are eighteen plastic sprues (eight plus the two hulls for the Panther; eight for the Königstiger), four vinyl tracks for the Königstiger, and two decal sheets. The two instruction manuals (Panther has 30 steps over 8 pages; the Königstiger has 75 steps over 24 pages). The downloadable instructions are also available separately online (https://icm.com.ua/pack/panzerwaffe-steel-cats/). As this is a review of the DS 3524 Panzerwaffe Steel Cats (multi-kit), each kit will be reviewed separately. Both kits are detailed but show the different times they were produced. The Panther track is provided in individual links, while the Königstiger has two-piece vinyl tracks. Take care remove small pieces (grab handles, etc.) as the plastic is fragile and will break when removed from the sprue gates.

Panther Ausf D Kit

The model builds straightforwardly, and the sequence is logical, although the biggest observation before assembly is that the sprues are not marked, nor have numbers. I photocopied the sprue page and had it as a reference. It is also advisable to keep the two kits separate to avoid confusion. There are minor notes that are identified here by their instructions:

Step 12: Make two headlights; only one indicated.

Step 13: Drill out holes from hull rear interior for the stowage boxes (not indicated in the instructions).

• Part A32 (shackle); two provided, only one indicated.

Step 15: Test fit Part B52 (driver and assistant driver roof) in hull top before adding

Smaller pieces (grab handles and hatch stops); my piece required sanding to fit; better to get larger pieces in place, then add fragile parts.

• If using hull crew, I recommend adding blanking under hatches as there is no interior detail.
• Test fit Part B34 (engine hatch) in hull top before adding grab handles, etc. (same as the comment above).
• Parts Nos. B43, B45, B58, and A24 are duplicate parts to be added; only one each is indicated in the instructions.
• Step 12 (headlights) is mislabeled as Step 11; add both; only one is indicated.
• Recommend adding black Styrene under the engine grills as no engine detail is provided.
• There is a significant gap between the upper top hull and the rear that needs to be filled in (see photo).

Step 17: Spare tracks (and tracks) have solid guide horns; tracks should have hollow guide horns, but there is no option in this kit.

Step 21: Part A41 (engine grill) is labeled once; it should be four. The grills are mounted in pairs, the rearmost grills should have the “waves” facing rearward and the grills nearest the turret should have the “waves” facing forward. See photo for correct alignment.

• Part A16 (engine grill) is labeled once; it should be twice
• There is no PE/mesh provided for the engine grills.

Step 22: Part A18 (front mud guard hinge x2, listed once) is fragile and had to be replaced with fine wire.

• Part A27 (butterfly nuts for mud guard hinge) is listed once. It should be six; three per side.
• Part A28 (rear tow cable attachment point) is listed once, it should be listed twice.

Step 23: The individual track links resisted Tamiya Thin and required superglue to maintain shape. The proper sag can be made as there are plenty of left-over track links.The track links are fiddly, take care and take time to make them look good.

Step 26: Interior shell casing ejection port hinges and details can be left off if the door is closed. If open, more detail added will be necessary as all that is provided is basic.

Breach assembly.

Step 27: Same as Step 26.

• If a crew is to be added, I recommend a piece of Styrene be added for support before adding the turret bottom piece (Part No. D2).

Step 28: Part D22 (grab handle) listed once; should be twice.

• Part D23 (commander hatch handle) is listed once; should be twice.

Step 30: The schürzen (Parts Nos. B2 and B3) are one piece. If missing panels are to be displayed, then some minor surgery to remove panels and building supports will be required.

The Panther comes with two marking options, both Wehrmacht units in the summer of 1943:

• Pz. Abt. 52 (No. 512), July 1943 Operation Zitadelle - Kursk
• Pz.Gren.Div. Großdeutschland 212, August 1943

I painted the Panther in the first option, No. 512 of the 52^nd Battalion of the 39^th Armored Regiment, as it was during the Battle of Kursk.

Königstiger Kit

The model builds straightforwardly, and the sequence is logical. There are minor notes that are identified here by their instructions:

Step 7: Turret periscope is not clear, so mount it and make a note to paint afterward.

• There is no interior, and if figures are to be used, then I recommend blanking off the interior before fitting the top and bottom halves of the turret.

Step 8: The barrel is two pieces split longitudinally with no locator tabs, so take care when the adhesive dries.

Step 17: The rear loading hatch can be made to be open and close if Part No. C26 is not cemented; however, there is no interior detail besides the basic breach.

Step 29: Part 31 (x4) doesn’t show orientation; I built them with the holes facing up (once the road wheels are assembled, they are hard to see regardless).

Steps 29 – 36: The torsion bars aren’t seen once built except by the turret crew hatches. As there is no detail in the turret, this seems like unnecessary work as only the first torsion bar (from the front) is used as a locator for the interior framework that builds from Steps 33 to 37. Review what you want to build and save some time if you don’t want the torsion bars.

Step 38: If using crew, then recommend blanking off underneath their positions before joining the upper and lower hulls.

Step 41: As there is no engine, I recommend blocking off under the engine grills with black styrene.

• There is no PE/mesh provided for the engine grills.

Steps 42-55: The suspension is locked in and not workable. Just enjoy the build as the road wheel arms just assemble one way.

Steps 67-69: Before assembly of the driver compartment hatches (Step 67) and the engine hatch (Step 68), test fit the large pieces to ensure they fit on the upper hull. My sample did not fit without sanding, and it would have been easier without the grab handles and fiddly bits not already glued in place.

Step 72: The headlight (Step 71) do not have the prominent conduit running upwards on the glacias. This is easily remedied with a piece of fine wire or solder.

Step 74: The vinyl tracks glue well together; however, the tracks are tight, and I really had to stretch the right-side track to make it fit together. Fortunately, the missing track sag is hidden behind the track fenders.

The Königstiger has four marking options, all Wehrmacht:

• s.Pz.Abt. 501 (No. 332), December 1944, Battle of the Bulge (Ardennes offensive) - Ardennes
• Stab./s.Pz.Abt. 501 (No. 008), December 1944 Battle of the Bulge (Ardennes offensive) - Ardennes
• s.Pz.Abt. 503, March 1945, Danzig
• s.Pz.Abt. Feldherrenhalle (No. 300), March 1945, Operation Spring Awakening

I painted the Königstiger as No 332 of s.Pz.Abt. 501 as painted during the Battle of the Bulge.

I enjoyed assembling these two “cats” and it was fun to see many of the same design features building them together. As mentioned above, ICM did a good job combining both tanks into one box. The cost is significantly cheaper to buy this kit, rather than both kits separately. Best of all, they look the part. The decals are thin and settle in beautifully.

Unfortunately, neither kit provides any clear pieces for vision ports. While not for beginners due to the ambiguous instructions (especially for the Panther), fragile parts, and tracks, either individual link (Panther) or vinyl (Königstiger), this is a good set for intermediate modelers as technique practice. While there are better, more modern kits available, both will build up beautifully with aftermarket parts, particularly tracks and PE engine grills. Side-by-side, these “cats” look good together, although the size of both seems suspect as the Königstiger is a larger tank.

These kits show their age, but more importantly, it shows how far ICM has come with their technology and quality. They are good value when purchased together with this boxing.

Slava Ukraini! (Glory to Ukraine!)

Profuse thanks to ICM and IPMS/USA for providing the review sample.