With the release of the Eduard Bf-109G-6 kit it was inevitable that they would release Brassin sets for the kit. This one allows the modeler to open up the engine cowling and expose the beautiful engine underneath.

Packed in a sturdy top opening box with individual ziplock bags inside that protect the parts with the aid of foam inserts. Four small ziplock bags protect and segregate the parts in shipping. There are 66 resin parts molded in various shades of grey resin. I could not find any issues with bubbles or deformity. Also included is a brass photo etch fret. I mean it is from Eduard so you know it is perfect. Included is a really nice little decal sheet that has the markings for the engine. You can make up any serial number in yellow or white.

The instructions are printed on four pages on front and back. They are lavishly illustrated and easily understood, or at least I thought they were. Initially the hardest part to understand is the firewall cut. This beautiful set is exactly what you’d want for a 109. The resin parts are expertly cast and easily removed. Interestingly, the left cowling has the more common notched mount for the air intake as opposed to the kit which has a straight mount. This will make aircraft selection easier. The right cowling does not have the G-5/14 type bulge but has the common G-6 bulge.

The firewall is a beautiful rendering of the real thing, as is the oil tank. The engine block is an amazing piece of molding. There is a choice between the G-6 and the G-6/U4 upper deck. The level of detail is really amazing throughout this set.

If there is a downside, it would be that the lower engine cowling is not opened as well. It is often seen swung down and out of the way.

But how does it fit? Let’s see. First off, study the instructions before you start and then study them again. I did but I should have studied some more. Read on. You will need some wire of various sizes , 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm and 0.6mm before you start. They are not provided by Eduard. I used solder so I could bend it easily.

The construction of the engine starts with the engine block. The fit of the oil tank is so tight at the front that I think I forgot to glue mine on. Everything is beautifully detailed. The photo etch lifting lugs just need a little superglue to snap into place. Rolling the photo etch into a perfect circle would have been a whole lot more difficult if it wasn’t for my Small Shop Photo Etch Bending & Rolling Deluxe Brass Assist. This tool would come in handy for this upgrade.

As I proceeded with the build, I recommend that you leave the R37 and R38 off until a little later. These parts, which make up the blast deflectors for the guns, are very fragile. If I were to do it again I’d leave them off until I absolutely had to put them on. They got in the way the entire build and eventually broke off. I’d add them just before I added the engine bearers.

The hose in step 3 is mis-numbered. It is numbered R53 but should be R54. I figured this out in step 6, when one was too small and one was too long. You have been warned.

The hose on the back of R30 proved to be troublesome for me. It was all my fault. The fit of all the parts is very tight so you have to be sure you clean all residue off. Most parts will fit so well that they wouldn’t require glue. Glue them just to be sure. With that the engine block assembly was done. It all happened relatively quickly.

The firewall assembly is the next piece that needs to be built up. I recommend that you add R25 to the back of the engine and NOT to firewall. The fit of the gun part to the engine block is very tight, however, the fit to the firewall is sloppy by design. Save yourself some trouble here and add the gun cover to the engine. I speak from experience.

I’m not sure who designed the set, but the PE on the left side are a pain to get correct and fold.

Once that is all done it was time to bring the sub assemblies together. They fit perfectly and look really nice when they are done. Some smaller parts have to be added here and there, most notably is the solder lines that have to be threaded over the entire engine. The Spitfire Merlin engine was easier in this respect.

Eduard has you modify the fuselage at this time. The instructions are not entirely clear on what needs to be removed. The thing I didn’t remove that I should have was the lower deflectors on both sides of the engine. By the time I realized this it was too late to remove.

Here is where I should have studied the instructions more. Eduard indicates that the fuselage should be assembled at this time. DON’T DO IT!!!!! Again I’m not sure who designed this set but if the fuselage is assembled you can not, repeat, CAN NOT add the engine assembly as the instructions depict. Eduard says to slide the front of the engine in the front cowling and then lower the back of the assembly in place. Unless the assembly was rubber it just can’t make the bend that would be required. The fit of the front of the oil cooler in the cowling is perfect, unless you are trying to insert the assembly into it. Basic physics will show that you can’t make it happen. Everything is tight. There is just no physical way it could happen. I elected to cut my front cowling to open it up a bit. I was not happy to do this especially since my aircraft would be natural metal. That got it closer, but not close enough. My engine and firewall assembly broke in half with parts going everywhere. IF, I repeat, if you don’t glue the upper and lower portion of the front cowlings you could work the assembly into the fuselage without drama. As it was I was swearing in at least three different languages. I was tempted to make this a crashed aircraft, but I resisted the urge to throw it at the wall.

I eventually got the firewall and the engine in along with most of the parts back where they belonged. I didn’t get them all.

Since I cut the top I had to fill that seam again. Of course while I was doing that I broke R37 and R38 off again. I even lost one and had to scratchbuild one of them.

Adding the exhaust stacks proved to be a pain as well. I wish that Eduard had marked R43 and R44 as left and right. I was thinking that maybe if I put them on BEFORE I added the engine that might have proven easier, provided I didn’t close up the fuselage. My PE parts for the exhaust deflectors were a little large because I didn’t remove the lower deflectors, which I mentioned earlier. This was my fault and not Eduard’s. They looked alright but I think they could have looked better if I had removed the lower deflectors.

One thing that Eduard doesn’t address is when to add the instrument panel. They say to modify it but don’t mention when to add it. I should have added it before I added the entire engine/firewall assembly. As it was when I added it proved to be a pain as well. My fault for not adding it soon enough.

Since my aircraft was going to have the propeller installed I elected not install the prop shaft. This would look great if the prop was going to be left off.

I elected to hollow out the supercharger intake on the front and from the backside. I eventually was able to make this like the real thing. A Dremel tool was essential. Just go slow. The one part that I didn’t thin, that I think should be thin, is R18, the saddle cowling with the molded on bulges. I would have thinned it but there is detail on the inside I didn’t want to lose.

Another thing that seemed out of place was the placement of the decals on the engine. They should have been added before the engine bearers were added but Eduard doesn’t show them until the last page of the instructions after everything has been added. Because of this my engine is missing these items as I couldn’t figure a way to get the numbers and letter “A” on top of the engine.

Adding PE 4 required the Small Shop roller again. I don’t know how you would do that part without it. Fitting the cowlings proved pretty anti-climactic. The cowlings fit perfectly as long as you add the one with the cutouts for the cowling support first and then the other cowling. The struts support the cowlings perfectly and make the cowlings secure and strong.

The left engine cowling has the proper cutout of the supercharger mount that the kit doesn’t have. Adding the cowlings was done just before finishing up the model as their gullwing would have been problematic in handling.

On the downside, it was a lot of work. Above all else, DO NOT GLUE THE FUSELAGE FRONT HALVES TOGETHER UNTIL AFTER YOU ADD THE ENGINE/FIREWALL ASSEMBLY. Then add the instrument panel. The instructions let this set down, especially where the engine is inserted into the fuselage. The mis-marked piping is not a big deal. They are easily recognized. I was disappointed that I couldn’t add the numbers and letter to my engine because of where they are shown in the instructions but I’ll live with it. Remember to add the gun cover to the back of the engine and not to the firewall as the instructions state. You will need to have various sized solder available and I recommend the Small Shop roller. Remember to sand off the lower deflectors for the exhaust area in preparing your fuselage. Having to open the supercharger was a pain, but a requirement. The saddle cowling should have been thinner in my opinion as well.

On the plus side, my model had a visible engine. I liked the look of the engine and firewall on the model. It sets apart the model. It does look good. It could look better. If I did it again I would do a better job. The detail on the engine is exquisite. The ‘tightness’ of fit of the parts is a testament to the superb craftsmanship of Eduard. Everything fits perfectly and precisely.

I did not enjoy this as much as I thought I would, primarily because of the difficulty with inserting the engine/firewall into the fuselage. Again the instructions could have been better or maybe my understanding of them. Either way it was a lot of work. Other than that the rest of the things are not that big deal to me and just par for the course when adding an aftermarket part to a model. I think it looks good when done. I recommend this set only to experienced modelers.

Recommended for experienced modelers only

Thanks to Eduard and IPMS/USA for the review copy. You can obtain your copy by contacting them at https://www.eduard.com, your local hobby shop or online retailer.