I started out with this small, bagged resin and Photo-Etched brass kit, thinking it would be a quick, enjoyable build. What I found was much more complicated.

The kit consists of 1 Photo-Etched Brass sheet containing the Acetylene Torch/Welding cart and two different welding guns, depending on your preference, and 1 resin sprue consisting of the welder figure, two spoked wheels, two very fragile axles, and the gas tanks.

Initially, the parts removal and flash cleanup are fairly easy, however, this is in 1/87 scale (HO), so everything is very small as seen in this photo with needle nose pliers and #11 Xacto blade for scale.

Up until this point, the build went relatively well, bending the cart into shape, and fitting the axle and wheels to the cart. However, My mistake was not gluing the gas tanks to the cart before I fitted the axle and wheels.

As a result, my fat fingers applied too much pressure and I completely destroyed the cart/axle system.

Eduard Models continues to expand its Brassin line, this time with a drop-in replacement for the Hasegawa Mc 202 (also applicable to the Eduard Folgore #1132).

The parts are casted in grey resin, with no bubbles or surface imperfections. Please note that the parts are handed (i.e., they are left and right parts).

The exhaust ends are hollow (big improvement over the plastic part) and the sides of the exhaust are very thin, much closer to scale. The parts also include a beautiful weld seam.

You can see from the pictures that the resin parts certainly improve the look of the model and because they are a drop-in replacement it takes no extra time to install them. They fit perfectly!

Highly recommended.

I would like to thank Eduard Models and IPMS/USA for the review sample.

Most of the time, Figures in small scales, such as HO (1:87) are armed with weapons that roughly represent their 1:1 scale real-world counterparts at best, and more often than not, look like sticks or worse.

If you have any 1:87 scale WW2-era Soviet troops that need improved weapons, this is for you.

The kit is composed of 1 sheet of photo-etched brass, containing 10 WW2-era Soviet Small Arms, and 1 instruction sheet

The small arms are very highly detailed, historically accurate, and are folded in half to represent both 3D sides of the weapon. Iron sights and bolt-action levers, as well as magazines, and even triggers and trigger-guards are represented very well on the models.

As seen in the picture below, I have assembled the Mosin-Nagant standard infantry bolt-action rifle.

This is a photoetch bomb bay upgrade set to for the Revell Ventura MkII which has very simple molded details in the kit part and really needs them. One reason I put off buying the Revell kit was my disappointment in the bomb bay detail, this set make it very simple to really improve the kit.

In the packet is:

• 1 large photoetch steel sheet
• 1 instruction sheet

Summary

This is a fantastic set and the kit really needs this as it’s a major improvement. The set does require a lot of work removing the simple molded details on the kit parts especially part B6. But it’s well worth all the effort. The set also includes the bomb fins and spinners. I really loved the finish look of the bomb bay once this was done. If you have the Revell kit you have to get this set!

Thanks go to Eduard for providing this set to review and IPMS USA for allowing me to review it for them.

Last we left off, the airframe was together with the parts and we were ready to paint. In preparation, I added the landing gear. To me, this allows the plane to sit up off surfaces while drying and these were sturdy and fit perfectly with the best attachment points I have seen. To start, I used Tamiya acrylic high gloss white thinned with lacquer thinner and sprayed the bottom and slightly up the sides. I masked off the intakes as they had a great demarcation line from the previous painting and the great design. I also shot the flaps, the rudder on the tail and all the landing gear doors. This dried quickly and I masked off for the Gull Gray. I masked around the edges and the rudder and used my Gyrocut to get some wavy lines. Tamiya yellow tape was used for all masking. I sprayed the top with Xtracolor thinned with lacquer thinner and set the plane aside to dry for a few days. I also gave both horizontal stabs a coat of gloss white.