This review is for an interesting and something entirely new product (at least for me): a set of masking tools or templates to assist in the often-tedious task of masking your P-47 model. Enter the Hawaiian Air Depot company. Along with the masks themselves, owner John Ferdico includes several B&W images of Col. Gabreski’s aircraft as a welcome reference. From the Hawaiian Air Depot company’s website includes these notes:

Masks for the 1/48 Miniart Thunderbolts - $2.99

This download complements our P-47D-25 Essential Mask Set by adding the squadron codes and full invasion stripes to depict Gabreski’s HV*A. (I should also note a separate mask package is available for LtCol. David Shilling’s ‘Hairless Joe’) The wing stripes are positioned further outboard, as per period photos, and two sets of fuselage stripes are provided: a standard set and one depicting the edging or outlining seen in pictures.

That outline is often depicted as black trim, but based on the photos here we believe they resulted from overspray of the masking tape used to mark the white stripes. HV*A s appears to have been photographed after the white was panted but before the black was added. Overspray is also evident on the serial number painted on the tail. As a bonus, we’ve designed a mask to help you replicate that, too.

In any case, the two complete sets of fuselage stripes will allow you to paint just the white and the overspray, the standard black and white as likely appeared sometime after taking the pictures, or the black edges around the white stripes, your choice. We try to help you make it your own.

Overspray Masks for the 1/48 Miniart P-47D Thunderbolts - $1.99

Our Overspray Mask sets are made to download and cut from 2 or 3mm Craft Foam. This simple design quickly and accurately masks the cockpit opening, main wheel wells, engine, tail wheel well, and fuselage vents of the 1/48 Miniart P-47s. Download includes one 4 x 6 in.(101.6 x 152.4 mm) SVG file, a DXF copy, and a PDF placement guide.”

Additionally, John sent these notes:

“That’s a description of what one receives when they purchase a design off the website. After the purchase you would receive an email with a link where you can download files onto your computer. The measurements refer to the size of material the file is designed to print on. For instance, your mask are 7X9.25 inches, which are the dimensions of Tamiya Masking Sheets you can buy. Some purchases are a single file/page, others can be up to 7. I think the Torpedo 8 sheet for the Trumpeter TBD is a 7-pager.

SVG, DXF, and PDF are the types of computer files that will download. You are probably familiar with .pdfs, as they are the common file extension for all sorts of documents shared electronically. For designs to be printed on paper— instruction sheets and sometimes paper templates— we include the files as .pdfs. You can print them on your home printer or view them on your phone, tablet, or computer if you prefer. Nowadays I keep my iPad at my modeling workbench, it has my instruction sheets, reference books, and research photos I grab off the internet, all in one place. And it plays music, podcasts, or audiobooks to listen to while I’m working. The glorious future of modeling is here!

svg and dxf are the two most common file types for vector drawings (line drawings) which are what we provide for the mask and styrene parts files.So they are computer files, just like .pdfs or .docs, in this case the ones that the cutting machines prefer to cut.

Silhouette and Cricut (pronounced “Cricket”) are the two most popular manufacturers of home cutting machines. The Silhouette Portrait is their base model, and the one we recommend for modelers who want an entry-level machine. Cricut makes competing models: here’s a link to the Maker 3, one of their high-end models. It’s a Coke/Pepsi type of thing; different brands of essentially the same type of product.

What I did for you was cut the designs on one of these machines (can’t remember which, the results are pretty much identical). I used Tamiya Masking Sheets, but there are several materials modelers like as well. So instead of buying the finished product, modelers with a Cricut or Silhouette machine can buy just the design and make the product on their machines at home.The process is like printing a document from your computer to your home printer: Open the document io your computer, set a few things up in the driver menu, hit the “cut” button, and the cutter cuts your masks or parts.

That’s the advantage of our business model: The Gabreski set is two full pages of designs that sell for $2.99.The masking sheets are about $2 apiece, and the purchase includes an unlimited personal use license, meaning you can cut as many sets as you like if they are for your own personal use. No reselling or giving them away to friends.”

My experience in using these masks was a slow, exacting and a very gratifying process. In my placement of the individual mask segments or pieces, a slow approach and careful alignment is called for. I found the placement of the individual mask segments worked best if I used one point as a starting point with one segment (referencing both the kit and masking sets) and worked onto the adjoining segment and then the neighboring segment which results in the necessary patchwork. I took care and watched the color guide to position each piece/segment.

If you’re looking for additional information about either the Cricut or the Silhouette cutterdevices, you’ll be able to learn more about either devices on the internet by simply looking for either name as both seem to be very similar and allow for use the referenced scalable vector graphic (SVG) files.

Painting (as this is a review for the masking set, I am including my MiniArt kit notes)

I used a variety of paints to complete my P-47D. Initially I chose interior colors: AK Real Color’s US Interior Yellow Green (#RC 262) and Zinc Chromate Yellow (#RC 263);these two interior colors as the original plants painting various parts used one of these two colors.

The major consideration is which colors to use for the overall camouflage scheme. I have yet to find good color photos of Gabreski aircraft. Every modeler choosing to replicate the Gabreski a/c is going to confront the issue of what colors should I use?My internet search brought me to any number of artist impressions of what his a/c might have looked like and I must admit these renderings provided a beginning point for my model painting approach. I began this research using the one well known available color photo of the armorers loading the .50 caliber ammunition into the port wing. I chose two base colors: AK Real Colors’ Medium Grey (#RC 249) and Dull Dark Green (#RC 230).While I looked at several other colors, including RAF Ocean Grey (#RC 288), British Dark Olive Green (#RC 286), and British Dark Green (#RC 042), none seemed to match what I saw in both the instruction rending nor those in several of graphic artist depictions.The bottom color remains a mystery, though most often called out as a bare aluminum (and sometimes a lighter grey).I have used Vallejo White Aluminum (#77.706) and feel this matches what I have ‘guessed’ for the overall bottom color.The front cowl piece and rudder were both painted with Real Color Signal Red (#RC 005), the canopy mask in AK Real Color Aluminium (#AK 479), while the invasion stripes are painted in AK Flat Black (#RC 001), ordnance in Green FS 34258 (#RC 233), and the propellor tips with AK Yellow (#RC 007).

I also attempted to use several of the available black and white images as well as references. Most of these images provide a picture of a well-worn and splotchy paint job. One additional bit of color information is available in the form of a vintage Kodachrome image of Schilling’s ‘Hairless Joe.’ While small, this image clearly illustrates the overall grey and green camouflage for another P-47D at that time and provides a significant photographic reference for modelers.

I also used a very small amount of Vallejo Plastic Putty (#70.401) to fill in where small seam gaps appeared. However, I suspect you may be pleased with the extremely tight fit around the wing and elevator area and realize that even a small amount of paint will fill this areas.

After painting my models, always lay down several layers of Alclad’s Aqua Gloss Clear (#ALC 600).This ensures that I have a smooth glossy finish and prepares the model for subsequent decal applications. I am often ask about Aqua Gloss Clear which in the bottle appears to be about the 2% skim milk consistency—once it’s applied to the model, it dries perfectly clear and is imperious to subsequent washes and oils or other coatings. I used a small amounts of Walters Solvaset #904-470 and Microscales Micro Set #MI-1, which provided the decals to snuggle down and fit tighter when dry.

My painting included a small amount of pin washes, using 502 Abteilung Brown Wash #ABT080. I completed my dry brushings, using my regular Winsor & Newton’s Artist Oil color Naples Yellow Light, No. 426. I completed my model with a final finish using Testors Dullcoat Lacquer (#1160).

Decals

There are three sets of markings laid out the modeler to choose from and this is where the ‘plot thickens.’ These include an a/c from the 56th FG flown by Capt. Frederick Christensen Jr.(‘Rozzie Geth II’), 78th FG flown by Capt. Ben Mayo (‘No Guts, No Glory’) both a/c in overall metal and invasion stripes and Col. Gabreski’s 56th FG in an upper camouflaged fuselage and invasion strips.

Overall Evaluation

The Hawaiian Air Depot masks were graciously supplied by the company, and I recommend that you try these masks, they adhere well, allow for detailed masking and are priced right. I trust you’ll be as pleased with them as am I.