The Bf-109F introduced huge engine access doors for servicing the engine. With these hinged doors the Bf-109 was easy to service. This feature is a visually appealing look. So Eduard’s kit is a natural for this treatment. But with the complex look and shape of the engine and piping would they be able to capture it.

Eduard’s set is designed its 109Fs. Packaged in a sturdy cardboard box with protective Styrofoam pieces, the kit includes 46 resin parts, a photoetch fret, and decals to detail your engine. The resin pieces are secured inside of three small ziplock baggies. This prevents them from moving around and if something should break off it is easily found. My example had no breakage. The resin is the typical Eduard resin in light grey with no bubbles or warpage that I could tell. You will have to supply the solder to plumb the engine. You will need .3mm, .4mm, .5mm, .6mm and 1.0mm.

The instructions are an 8-page mini-booklet. The instructions are in the form of drawings of the various sub-assemblies. This works ok but there are some issues in the instructions.

1. Don’t forget to apply the decals before attaching the engine bearers.
2. Part 53 in Step 3 and Part 54 in Step 6 are misnumbered. It is easy enough to swap them around because they won’t fit the way they are shown.
3. Step 20 has you remove the forward cowling. What it doesn’t tell you is too thin the oil cooler area and the area around the exhaust housing.
4. In Step 21- DO NOT ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE without adding the engine assembly from Step 26. If you don’t you are screwed.

Other than those things noted in the instructions, the actual construction of the engine is pretty straight forward. It is beautifully detailed resin engine. Care is required when dealing with PE9 and PE-15 which are the supports for the gun troughs. These are just really delicate so just use caution when handling and painting the engine. Again, now is a good time to add the decals. Eduard doesn’t even mention the decals until the last page of the instructions. Since I was going to do mine in my F-1 I needed the 601N. Eduard gives you the big letter N or E for the top of the engine as well as serial numbers for the side. They apply very easy.

The key to this whole assembly is painting and patience. All the resin pieces fit perfectly and as designed. I left my guns off until a little bit later in the process, AFTER adding the plumbing. The actual plumbing of the engine was pretty easy as long as you have the right size solder. I used some that I purchased from Plus Model in various sizes.

The hardest part of the whole assembly was the photo etch parts on the left side. The pictures are a little hard to make out where things go. It is a very complex area and some of the PE has to be bent to shape. This really was a pain but when done it looks convincing.

The one thing that needs to be decided on eventually is whether to add the engine supplied prop shaft or use the one from the kit or the Brassin blades. It seems a shame to cover up that beautiful oil cooler, but I felt that I wanted to show off the engine and the propeller mechanism so I used the Brassin Propeller shaft that came with that set. I had to drill a hole in my engine to make it fit properly.

Some of the PE parts require bending. I used my Small Shop Deluxe Roller Set which is an expensive tool but worth every penny. It helps with bending the PE around the cooler on the front and back side of the forward cowling.

I primed everything with Alclad Grey Primer, but I could have used their black primer and saved me a painting step. Next time. I then painted my engine Tamiya NATO Black with some silver dry brushing. The RLM 02 parts were picked out here and ther

with some AK colors. The guns were painted in Model Master Titanium. Silver parts were painted with AK silver pastes which I was trying for the first time. They looked real nice over the NATO Black. I was happy with the results.

Test fitting the cowling in the model revealed that I needed to sand the back of the gun deck just slightly to get a better fit with the Brassin cockpit parts. Nothing drastic just thinned it a little bit. I did have to thin the forward cowling to get the oil cooler to fit properly. I also thinned the lower cowling slightly to make everything align perfectly and allow the fuselage to be connected without any force or coercion.

The engine AND the cockpit were added together. You MUST add the engine PRIOR to assembling the fuselage. I’ve built one of these engines before as Eduard instructs you but there is no physical way to add the engine the way they tell you. It is physically impossible. So that is why I say you MUST add the engine before you close up the fuselage. If you learn nothing else from this review this is that one thing.

I drilled out the supercharger hole in the cowling and the actual supercharger so that it was see through. Will anyone notice? Probably not but I do.

Adding the exhaust stubs is the hardest part of this not because it is difficult but because I’m a bonehead and installed one whole set on the wrong side. Then had to break them off and add them to the other side. I was not entirely happy with my results. This was all my fault and not the Brassin set. Once everything was said and done it looked really good.

Adding the cowlings to the finished model is pretty straight forward and with the Albion metal tubing for support that structure is pretty robust and sturdy.

I am impressed by the finished product and how fast that it actually went together. This mini-kit is a great addition to my Bf-109F-1. If you want to add that extra umpf to your kit this is certainly a way to do it. Was it easy? I thought so. It isn’t for a beginner but I think that most modelers with some resin under their belts could make this kit. You will be required to have the solder to form the piping and some special tools but certainly, it is doable. DON’T FORGET TO ADD THE ENGINE BEFORE YOU CLOSE UP THE FUSELAGE. With the other things noted already, I’d say that this is about as easy way to get a detailed engine as there is out there. I love adding the engine to my Eduard 109. I do wish that the bottom of the engine was open sometimes but this is very strong and realistic looking when done. Take your time, test fit, proficient painting and patience and you will be rewarded with a realistic DB-601E/N.

Highly recommended

Thanks to Eduard and IPMS/USA for the review copy. You can obtain your copy by contacting Eduard at www.eduard.com . You can also obtain a copy from your local hobby shop or online retailer.