Master Details sells all different kinds of products which are manufactured in the USA. These guys have just about everything for our hobby. Some of their products are figures, diorama supplies, paints, glue and tools, but this review is about their 1/32 U.S. Army Air Force Fighter Pilot figure from mid- to late-World War Two, dressed in cold weather gear. Master Details has designed the pilot figure for a P-38, P-40, P-47, and U.S. Spitfires which flew with the USAAF service. I feel that this pilot can be used in any aircraft of the U.S. as long as the diorama is not depicted in a hot climate.

• Transfer Sheet # AR35364B (black lettering), Price $6.95
• Transfer Sheet # AR35364W (white lettering), Price $6.95

I asked to review these sheets listed as decals on IPMS, listing thinking they were water transfer decals. To my surprise, they are actually dry transfers. Back in the 1970’s, between my aircraft engineering jobs, I had a Civil Service position as a Cartographer, making various maps for my County. I was introduced to dry transfers on the job, using a burnishing stick to place letters and numbers onto Mylar maps. It was nice but you had to line up each character precisely. Fear not, this isn’t the case with these Archer transfers as the signage is already spelled out, properly spaced, and a number next to each signage to be used for a building address. But before you rush out to purchase these, read on carefully, for there are issues.

• Transfer Sheet # AR35366B (black letters), Price $6.95
• Transfer Sheet # AR35366W (white letters), Price $6.95

I asked to review these sheets listed as decals on IPMS, listing thinking they were water transfer decals. To my surprise they are actually dry transfers. Back in the 1970’s, between my aircraft engineering jobs, I had a Civil Service position as a Cartographer making various maps for my County. I was introduced to dry transfers on the job, using a burnishing stick placing letters and numbers onto Mylar maps. It was nice but you had to line up each character precisely. Fear not, this isn’t the case with these Archer transfers as the signage is already spelled out, properly spaced and with a number next to each signage to be used for a building address. But before you rush out to purchase these, read on carefully, for there are issues.

Plus Model has made a living providing us with little odds and ends of resin to liven up our modeling projects, and this is just such an item. From their Easy Line, the six pieces in the poly bag require minimum work. Molded in gray resin are a table top, 4 legs, and a 3-legged stool. The table is like a kitchen table, with drawers for utensils. It would seem a better choice for a seat would be kitchen chairs, but these are available as a separate kit.

The stool in my sample had all three legs bent over, like someone had taken the stool out of the mold and popped it right in the bag. Looked like a spider that had been stepped on. This would be my first challenge, and after sawing off the resin plug from the stool top, I held the stool under some hot water from the tap. Like a miracle, the legs softened and they straightened out.

The table legs were not a tight fit, so I used 5-minute epoxy. This gave some wiggle room to make sure all legs were aligned.

Plus Model has provided the armor modeler with a finely cast and detailed model of a German power generator used in WWII.

A quick check on the internet found that the Plus Model generator is in fact the Breuer WG3000 (3kw) generator. This generator delivers 3000w/220v/13.6a and uses a two-cylinder horizontally-opposed four-stroke engine that makes 17hp at 1,500 rpm. It was about as large as they came that used a skid; any larger and they were mounted on a frame with wheels, to be towed. The Plus Model rendition contains 24 resin parts, a photo-etch sheet (made by Hauler) with 21 p.e. parts, and a short length of copper wire.

The parts came bubble-wrapped inside a small cardboard box, but mine had 5 pieces broken off the casting sprue. Checking the small two-sided instruction sheet, I was able to identify the parts. Only one was broken badly enough that I had to make a new piece out of some styrene strips, but this wasn’t a problem.