The Willys Jeep is probably the most recognized vehicle during World War II with production equaling 660,703 from 1940 through 1945. This model by AMC models represents a unique variation in its use during the war. It was used to travel on the railroad system with the addition of modified wheels in Europe by some U.S. Army transportation battalions, and in the India Burma theater by British Commonwealth troops.

This model by AMC models is a full resin kit with the addition of a PE windshield screen, grab handles, and clear acetate for the glass. The model comes packaged in a sturdy box with all 31 parts contained in Ziploc bags. There is one decal sheet included of an allied star for mounting on the front hood. Included in the kit is a resin display base of railroad tracks. I

The instruction sheet is one small sheet of double-sided print comprising 5 steps to build the model and suggested painting of the vehicle.

When assembling this model the builder should take precautions for proper respiratory PPE and glasses to prevent any resin dust entering the lungs or the eyes. I would recommend a very fine razor saw for removing the parts for assembly.

Use very careful sawing to prevent damaging the parts. With the exception of the PE and resin chassis every single resin part must be removed from a resin pour block.

The 1^st step in assembly is to attach the axles and springs to the bottom of the chassis and drivetrain. I might note here that parts 2 and 3, the front gearbox and rear transmission on instruction page, indicate complete driveshafts, but not so on this kit. From plastic round stock I fashioned a 1 mm shaft for the front gearbox and a 1.3 mm shaft for the rear transmission for assembly to the chassis. At this stage you would also attach front and rear bumpers.

The 2^nd step is to add the muffler and wheels. At this point that I encountered a problem with the resin wheels for the kit. I have attached a photo of the wheels half embedded in the pour block and found them very difficult to remove without serious damage to the finished wheels. It was at this point that I fashioned my own wheels to complete the kit.

The 3^rd step is to add interior detail such as seatbacks and gearshifts. Part number 4, which is the taillights, is missing from the kit I was issued. I simply added these from plastic round stock.

The 4^th step is to add the hood, dash controls, steering wheel column, and the PE grab handles, parts 28 and 29.

The 5^th and final assembly step is to add the windshield Jerry cans and additional cooling cans on the front bumper. When I built this model I did not add the windshield at this point but deferred until after painting, then inserted the clear acetate and attached to model after final painting. Part number 10 indicates a spare tire attached to the rear of the Jeep but this part was missing from my kit. A unique feature of this variant of Jeep was to have guidepost indicators similar to those used by various German vehicles of World War II. The kit supplies wire that you must then cut and bend at 90° angles and attach to the sides of both left and right front fenders. I used superglue to form the ball on top of these post indicators.

I followed the kit instructions and painted the vehicle in faded olive drab from Model Master paints. I weathered the model with artist oils and AK-Interactive washes. Overall it built into a very nice-looking and pleasing model. With the exception of the way the wheels were poured in the resin block this was a fairly easy assembly. Taking into consideration that this is a total resin kit assembly, I would recommend this kit to experienced modelers of plastic kits that want to try their hand at a resin kit. That being said, and only because of the wheel issue, I would not recommend this kit to a novice modeler.

I would like to thank IPMS/USA and AMC models for the review sample.