Humber Armoured Car Mk II

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Company: Bronco Models - Website: Visit Site
Provided by: Dragon Models USA - Website: Visit Site
Box Art

This kit is a representation of the British Army’s Armoured Car that was developed in 1941 after revisions to make the production easier. It served till replaced by the Humber Mk III or the Daimler Mk I.

This is a multimedia kit but the use of the Photo-Etch is required, there are no optional plastic parts. Please be aware that some of the plastic parts are very, very small and will take a steady hand to get them off of the sprue without damage. And when they are off the sprue these minuscule parts do their very best to hide or get lost in the carpet or even on the work table.

This model has a complete interior for the engine, driving and fighting compartment. The kit has over 500 individual pieces and this gives the model great detail at the expense of time consuming miniscule parts.

It appears that Bronco has hired the instruction writer from Dragon. Misnumbered parts, parts not called out but shown on the model. Parts listed as not used, but are clearly shown in the assembly. I will try to point these out in each step.

  • Step 1 - This step builds engine subassembly there are quite a few pieces here and you should paint it as you go along, you will not be able to access some of the parts one in place.
  • Step 2 - These steps continue with the assembly of the drive train and inner frame.
  • Step 3 - This step builds the main frame.
  • Step 4 - This step completes the frame and attaches the engine subassembly and the main floor. Here is where you start attaching some of the control linkages which will set you up for possible breakage during handling if you are not careful.
  • Step 5 - This step builds the firewall and adds some detail to the floor. This is also the set that the instructions begin having problems. The fire extinguisher part I29 will not fit as placed due to interference with shield comprised of parts I28 and I11. I ended up turning the fire extinguisher 90 degrees so the handle no longer interfered with the shield. Part I28 is the top of the shield and shows two brackets in the instruction pictures, however, there is only one. I just left off the wing nut on that side as you can’t see that part of the interior anyway. There are four locating pins on the firewall part I2 that are to help you locate the shield. The shield does not fit the locating pins. I removed the two lower one and that allowed me to fit the shield above the lower bolt line at the bottom of the firewall. The driver sit is called out in the instructions, but the pictures of the sprues show them as not used. I used them anyway. On the back side of the firewall is a flap. It is shown in place but not called out. It is part C43. The CAD drawing of the assembled frame in this step shows a folded headlight attached to the front right. Ignore it for now.
  • Step 6 - This step builds a fuel tank and drops it in place. The instructions show a locating hole in the frame. It did not exist. I waited till I had added the lower side wall to make sure that all the pieces would clear before I added the fuel tank. This step adds more control levers and petals. Be careful in handling as these are exposed and can be damaged.
  • Step 7 - This step builds the steering column and instrument panels. Here you will need to decide how you will paint the interior and add the decals to the instrument panel. I left the steering wheel off, painted the interior, added the decals, weathered the interior, and finally added the steering wheel.
  • Step 8 - This step adds some more control petals. Make sure you add the petals and its associated parts before gluing panel C1 in place. This panel will cover up the area that the control petals will go, making it very difficult to insert them.
  • Step 9 - This step builds the exhaust pipes and muffler.
  • Step 10 - This step starts on the spring subassemblies and the axles. One of the parts A24 has a locating pin that is also the attachment point on the sprue. Be careful to not cut the part off of the sprue too close to the part, thereby cutting off the locating pin that you will need to attach it to the axle.
  • Step 11 - This step attaches the spring subassemblies to the frame. .
  • Steps 12 & 13 - These steps add the sub-assemblies 5 & 6 axles to the just installed springs. There is also some lower debris deflectors added.
  • Step 14 - This step adds two shock absorbers.
  • Step 15 - This step builds a fuel tank and one of the doors. The instructions list the door as part C11, it is actually part C111.
  • Step 16 - This step builds up the lower left side outer panel wall. Locating the ammo bin cabinet will take some fiddling. Part C45 actually interferes with the mounting of this cabinet. I eventually left it completely out. The fuel tank subassembly 7 is shown placed on a bit of angle iron part D22 which is shown glued to the side wall using a locating hole. There is no locating hole and there is no locating pin on part D22. I guessed as to the proper location and let it dry for several days before inserting the fuel tank.
  • Step 17 - This step builds up the lower right side outer panel wall. The same problem of locating the ammo bin cabinet took the same answer as listed in step 16
  • Step 18 - This step adds the two side walls and front and rear panels. I had to remove the locating pins on the rear panel part D12 to get it to center properly between the two side walls.
  • Step 19 - This step asks you to drill out some holes on the upper hull part G1. The two holes between the turret ring and the engine opening are not needed. The two holes between the turret ring and the front are pointing to the wrong locations. It should be for the two holes more forward. See step 55 for the placement of the splinter shield part I50 in these two holes.
  • Step 20 - This step builds internal parts for the upper hull.
  • Step 21 - This step adds the parts built in step 20 to the hull.
  • Step 22 - This step builds the driver visor in either the open or closed position.
  • Step 23 - This step glues the upper hull to the lower hull and adds part G3 to the front. If you intend to leave the doors open you will have needed to paint and weather both the upper and lower internals before adding the upper hull to the body. Access to the interior is severely restricted after this step, even if you leave the doors open.
  • Steps 24, 25, and 26 - These steps build the four main wheel assemblies. Make sure you know which one is which as it is important to mount the correct wheel at the correct location. In step 24 the instructions say not to cement part C58, it should read not to cement part C59. Also make sure of the tire tread is in the correct direction.
  • Steps 27 & 28- These steps mount the wheels and connects the steering linkages.
  • Step 29 - This step adds parts to the right side upper hull.
  • Step 30 - This step builds the engine cover and storage box.
  • Step 31 - This step mounts the engine cover in either open or closed position.
  • Step 32 - This step adds parts to the left side upper hull. The instructions show the towing handle part Ba16 installed, but is not called out.
  • Step 33 - This step builds the spare fuel cans. The instructions show a headlight being mounted on the fender. These parts have no call out part numbers. In step 41 the parts are called out and shown where to place them. Ignore this item here and use the instructions in step 41.
  • Step 34 - This step builds a storage box. You have three options, pick one and proceed.
  • Step 35 - This step assembles the fender by attaching the storage box from step 34 with a fuel can from step 33 and a one piece storage box (you have two options, pick one). The instructions show a locating hole for tail light part Ba42, but it is not called out. See step 38 for the opposite side.
  • Step 36 - This step builds more spare fuel cans and mounts them on fender part D6.
  • Step 37 - This step builds a storage box. You have three options, pick one and proceed. See step 34 for what you picked.
  • Step 38 - This step assembles the fender by attaching the storage box from step 37 with a fuel cans from step 36 and a one piece storage box (you have two options, pick one).
  • Step 39 - This step adds the fenders to the left side along with some tools.
  • Step 40 - This step adds the fenders to the right side along with a shovel. Remember the headlight that was shown in step 5, now it actually built and attached.
  • Step 41 - This step adds the headlight and rear view mirrors. I left them off till the very end as they will be broken off in handling and painting.
  • Step 42 - This is an overhead view of the kit up to this point. I did not see anything being added.
  • Step 43 - This step starts the turret build. The smoke grenade handle mount is incorrectly called out; it should be part Da11 instead of Da10. There is a rack of hand grenades that I added without the grenades and the top retaining bar. I painted the empty rack, and then painted the hand grenades separately, inserted the grenades into the rack and then added the retaining bar last. The main gun mantlet is incorrectly listed as I7, it should be I69.
  • Step 44 - This step continues the assembly of the turret. I left off the spotlight till the end of the build as it is very delicate and probably would be broken off at some time during handling. The same can be said for the smoke grenade launcher part Ba44.
  • Step 45 - This step adds the outside gun mantlet and the small hatch. The parts I13 - I16 are shell casing collection bags and they make it difficult to mount the guns so that they are at a respectable angle and still fit.
  • Step 46 - This step the rest of the main gun carriages and the main hatch cover. In subassembly 21 the instructions call out part H2 when it should be H3.
  • Step 47 - This step builds the turret seats.
  • Step 48 - This step adds the main guns to the turret and the main hatch.
  • Step 49 - This step builds the internal parts to the turret such as the radio and machine gun ammo storage.
  • Step 50 - This step attaches the turret connector to the floor centering pin. This is where the shell ejection chutes get in the way of a clean fit. It also adds the two turret seats.
  • Step 51 - This step attaches the subassembly 24 from step 50 to the upper turret gun mount.
  • Step 52 - This step adds the rear turret wall and the small intricate Photo Etch associated with the radio antenna. My fat fingers basically were not able to correctly build them. Maybe someday!
  • Step 53 - This step mates the upper turret with the lower turret section and builds the machine gun in two options. One with the machine gun in place, the second the machine gun stored and not in sight, and the mounting in a fixed stored position on the roof of the turret. The instructions for the mounted MG don’t call out the main support. It is part I3.
  • Step 54 - This step adds another Photo Etched radio antenna mount and this was worse than the one in step 52.
  • Step 55 - This step mates the turret with the hull and adds odds and ends to the hull based on your decision.

Painting and Decals

The color charts shows the reference numbers for Tamiya, Humbrol, Mr. Hobby, and Mr. Color. The paint schemes and associated decals are as follows:

  • Options 1 and 3 are for unknown units. The general paint scheme is overall light sand No. 16
  • Option 2 for the 12th Lancers, Armoured Car Regiment, 1st Armoured Division, North Africa 1942-43. The general paint scheme is overall Light sand No. 16 with no other camouflage colors.
  • Option 4 is for the 11th Hussars Armored Car Regiment, 7th Armoured Division, North Africa 1942. The overall color is the Light Sand No. 16 with large Flat Black splotches.

The decals are for the vehicle and are limited to the 4 paint schemes. They have no manufacturer's name other than Bronco, so I have to assume that Bronco produced them themselves. They appear to be in register but they are stiff. The decals on the vehicle are on flat surfaces and did not pose any problems


The build is at an Intermediate/Advanced level with very good detail and some exceptionally small plastic parts along with intricate and small photo etched parts. The molding is crisp with no flash and minimal mold lines. I can recommend this kit to all British Armoured Car fans.



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