Eduard continues its prolific release schedule of truly new items with this weekend release. Thanks very much for providing us the kit, and, as a company, for supporting IPMS USA with review items!

This kit is a re-release of Eduard’s Fw190D kit, without the photoetch, extra markings, masks, etc… and as such the price is much lower. The intent: build a model in a weekend! An excellent idea for those who don’t want to have AMS(Advanced Modeling Syndrome) rule their modeling, and it certainly makes the kits more attractive to the modeling public at large. A brilliant idea that appears to be bearing fruit!

I had not built one of the Eduard Fw190 series models. I have an A-8 and the Profipack D-9 in my stash, with the intent of building them later when I have time (!). When this kit became available, I was pleased to have an excuse to dive in.

Eduard kits exude quality from the second you hold them. For “short run” moldings, they put the “Long run” kits of competitors to shame. Take a few minutes and appreciate the engineering Eduard have done for us; fine, restrained rivet detail everywhere, petite scribing and detail work. This is a class act.

To follow in the spirit of the “Weekend” series, I followed the instructions as a novice would. Take note; there are a few places requiring holes be bored into the part from the inside to facilitate things like the drop tank pylon, the lower wing antenna, etc…read the instructions.

The interior is first; you work on the firewall and wheel well assembly, an area that has been overlooked in the past on Fw190 models. I was concerned with alignment and fit and, in the end, should not have been, as it all clicked together. Second is the cockpit; the option exists for a decal instrument or raised detail for painting and drybrushing. I opted for the decals; in this case, they are a bit different in color than standard RLM 66 interior gray, being more greenish blue in cast. No matter, I was going to model the kit with the canopy closed. I did deviate in one small area, that being use of some old True Details German brass seatbelts to add a bit of upgrade to the seat. (I know, a “foul” for my intent of following the weekend build…. Tough!)

The control stick and side panels are dry brushed and detailed, and the tail wheel is added. Then you close up the fuselage, trapping the wheel well/firewall, cockpit, and tail wheel assembly in place. The tail wheel can be built with either a separate wheel and strut, or an integral two piece assembly incorporating the wheel with the strut. I used this version, for strength purposes.

The wings are assembled next; incorporating cannon breech assemblies and feed chutes if you so desire to show them open. I left one in that state. The muzzles were casualties right off the bat, so I removed them and put them in the box for final installation. A sturdy wing spar makes up the aft part of the wheel well, and wheel strut wells are built up using extremely small parts; then it’s all brought together.

Next step is the landing gear, with a choice of ribbed or smooth tires; these fitted nicely on the end of the struts. I was a bit concerned about strut strength, as it’s relatively prototypical and almost a butt join but, in the end, it’s plenty strong.

Rudder and aileron surfaces are separate, while the stabilizers will require a careful hand and razor saw to animate. I have not noticed drooping elevators in pictures, so that’s just as well. The supercharger intake is next, along with the landing gear. The forward cowl radiator has an option of open or closed cowl flaps. That huge prop has some hidden detail, in the form of knurled attachment rings at the base of the prop. This is prototypical, as the actual propeller blades for this aircraft are made of wood, covered with fabric, and retained on the hub by knurled rings. Nice touch, a bit of silver paint and it all fits in the spinner.

The usual final steps have you install the forward fuselage hood over the empty gun rack on the nose in up or down position; there is sufficient detail for either scenario. The clear parts are excellent and fit in place without problems.

Painting the model is simplicity; RLM 81 Gray and RLM 82 green soft splinter over RLM 76; mottle with 81 and 82 green, and stripe lightly over the whole upper surfaces with RLM 83 light green. Just like the actual thing, it looks great. Decals behave well, and I was even successful with the spinner stripes. I used Walthers Solvaset to get the decals to snuggle in, and all is well. Pastel for the engine exhaust and it’s a model!

One thing to be careful of: the small, in-scale size of many parts requires a delicate hand during removal from the trees. Be forewarned; I did not break any parts, but could have easily done so. It’s not a critique item. I’d rather have the parts than scratchbuld them!!!!!

I was extremely impressed with this kit, and am now motivated to do more. Thanks again to Eduard for the kit and to IPMS/USA for the opportunity to review it; I anticipate more great things coming out our friends at Eduard in the Czech Republic!