Wing bands on a Hawker Seahawk

8 hours 53 minutes ago
G'day- I am gathering research information on a Hawker Seahawk; 806 Squadron. This jet has the "Ace of Diamonds" logo on the fuselage sides. According to a Modelaid magazine profile, there is a red-white band around the fuselage (illustrated), and it also references a red-white band around the wings, which is not illustrated. Does anyone have any information on where these bands are located, and whether the red is on the outside? I am thinking my next option is to contact on of the UK museums. thanks for any feedback. Joe Vattilana IPMS/Delaware Valley Scale Modelers Unknown-2

New York City Sanitation worker

1 day 12 hours ago
This is the 1/35th Nuts Planet Heavy Gunner (@$18.00). Since there is no back story or information in the kit, I felt I was free to develop the figure in my own way. The logo came from a set by Matho Models as are the sign and caution tape. The 12.7mm machine gun is quite nicely done and the perfect tool for combating NYC rats, don't you think? The small green blocks are Claymore mines for fending off large groups and possibly the cockroaches. Dak

Aircraft Carrier Arrestor Cables Diorama.

2 days 7 hours ago
I’ve built a couple of these in the past. They are relatively cheap, and easy to build. You can buy most of the material from any home improvement store. I use Lowe’s (they offer a military discount with an I.D.). The scene that my diorama depicts is a fully armed F-18 taxing towards a catapult for launch, with the aid of a plane director. Aircraft routinely taxi over the arrestor cables to get to the catapults. SUPPLIES: These are the following item that you need. 1. 2’x4’ 3/4” CDX plywood. The going price for a 2’ x 4’ sheet right now is around $34 dollars. . I build large bases. I can usually cut two bases out of one piece . You can build several small diorama bases out of a 2‘ x 4‘ sheet. 2. 3M 100 grit sandpaper pack. (Paint section)This is the easiest way to simulate the nonskid surface. (Ground based runways, Taxiways as well)3. Loctite contact adhesive. (Paint section) (To glue the sand paper to the plywood. 4. 3/4” high oak trim. (For a finished edge on the plywood) 5. Wood stain for the oak trim. ( paint section). They sell very small cans. Polyurethane clear coat (optional) 6. Miter box and miter saw. To cut the oak trim. (Tool world section). 7. Trim nails to attach the oak trim to the edge. (Hardware section). 8. Wood glue. (To spread on the edge of the plywood before you nail the oak trim to it, paint section) 9. Nail set. To counter sink the trim nail heads just below the surface. (Tool World section). 10 Felt pads. Put these on the bottom of the plywood so that it can be easily slid, or picked up.(Hardware section) These are the following model supplies that you will need; 1. Tom’s Model Works aircraft tie downs. They come in different scales. 2. Paint to airbrush the lines on. Either enamels, or acrylics. 3. Tape to paint the lines. 4. Some type of string to simulate the cable. I used Model Shipways. 5. Scrap photo etch. (To simulate the leaf springs that keep the wire suspended above the deck). CONSTRUCTION: 1. Choose the size of your base, cut to size. A good manual hand saw can be used, with good results. Make sure to draw the outline of the base on the plywood using a pencil and ruler. Make sure everything is square. 2. Prep the sandpaper to glue on to the plywood. Take a piece of sandpaper, and turn it, print side up. Take a ruler and draw intersecting lines. Where the lines intersect, is where you will punch a hole in the sandpaper so that you can glue the tie down in the center of the hole. 3. Glue the sandpaper to the plywood once all of the holes have been punched. It’s a good idea to take a ruler and draw a starting line on the plywood to line each piece of sandpaper up. Take painters tape and mask off the surrounding area of the plywood that you do not want to get contact adhesive on. Spray both the plywood and sandpaper with adhesive and wait 3-5 minutes. Line up the edge of the sandpaper on the line that you’ve drawn on the plywood. Press the sandpaper firmly down on the plywood. When all of the sandpaper has been attached, take superglue and glue each tie down in the center of each punched hole. 4. Airbrush various shades of gray to get the desired base color. 5. Once dry, measure and tape off the lines you wish to put on. 6. Add oil and grease stains once everything is painted and dry. 7. Stain and attach oak trim to the edge of the plywood. If anyone is interested in building one of these, and you have questions, feel free to message me. I’d be glad to help.

1/48 Hasagawa Spitfire Mk VB Jan Zumbach

3 days 10 hours ago
Greetings A replacement for one of my donations regarding the 303Sq. I ran across a decal sheet from Third Group Decals regarding Spitfire Mk Vb/c at Old Dominion Contest and off we go. Naturally I had no Mk Vb models in my stash (Inventory). Scored a Hasagawa kit at Heritage -Con and at Canadian prices 😃. Model was mostly out of box except some Eduard Seatbelts . I did add an IFF Antenna from Uschi line and a higher mirror brace. O well, goodbye Basic Kit build. Don't look at the drooping gun barrels, I repaired them and had three guys from the model club verify alignment at our monthly meeting last night. The decals were ok except for the wing Insignia which had a smidgeon of white protruding from a section ,ended up having to use some weathering to correct. Paints were Gunze all around. GX 114 Flat clear coating for final finish. Oil paints for panel washes and Tamiya weathering colors for dirt and wear. I did try some hairspray techniques in the wing root areas, semi successful . The gunze aqueous Dark Green did not want to vacate the wing . The Gray on the starboard side behaved better. Thanks for looking Comments always Welcome Cheers Bill D.

Navy Phantom II

1 week ago
As far as I can see from my references, all Navy Phantoms had no arrows on the stabilators. This is from the Bert Kinsey book. If you have it, it’s in Detail & Scale Vol. 12. I am bringing this up due to the latest issue of the Journal. Which has an excellent article on the 1/48th scale F-4J. In my collection of references, an excellent photo is shown of this particular aircraft, in squadron/signal publications Aircraft #65, page 48. This not to be nitpicking, but kits don’t always have the right parts, and sometimes need to be corrected. Thanks, Shubie

Deaths in the Family

1 week ago
Star Trek Modelmaker Greg Jein Dead at 76: https://heavy.com/entertainment/star-trek/greg-jein-dead-at-76/ Also, it has been reported on Hyperscale that “AJ Aviation, formerly known as The Aviation Hobby Shop, is closing down due to the death of the proprietor Tony Eastwood. Tony was also the author and publisher of several books annualy on civil aviation through the AJ Aviation Publications business, which …will also most likely discontinue. We send our condolences to family, friends and regular customers.”

Koster/Monogram 1/48 XP-72

1 week 1 day ago
Started on this as a fill in model while others have waiting time. The Koster parts are very good to work with. I followed Bill's directions and sprayed the vac sheets with a good grey primer, then went around the edges with a narrow felt pen. I scored around on the middle of the black line and then put a piece of 220 wet or dry on a glass surface and sanded until things looked right. Since it has been a fill in project I wasn't as good as I should have been about wip photos, but what's not shown is the process of putting together and installing a Black Box/True Details P-47M resin cockpit and Eduard seat belts/instrument panel. I put strips of plastic card in alternating spots on the fuselage halves and glued them together using the Tamiya resin glue in the hexagonal bottle. I am starting to like that glue, though the brush is a bit bigger than I like. There were resin parts for the contra rotating propeller, engine fan, and intercooler below the chin. This airplane was powered with the Pratt and Whitney R-4360 and unlike earlier Thunderbolts it did not have a GE turbocharger. Instead it had a second stage compressor mounted in the back where the turbo was earlier. The compressor was shaft driven from the engine. It had good altitude performance and reached 490mph during the test program. Only two were built, it was too late in the war to be needed. I reinforced the cowl seams with .6 ounce fiberglass adhered with thin CA. The wing panel lines were scribed. The XP-72 had 6 guns arranged differently so gun ports were filled and the barrels modified. The inner gun port will be re-cut to match the location of the third. I backed up the cooling fan with Aves Epoxysculpt, that gave me a lot more time to position the fan correctly. I tried it with gel super glue the first time, but somehow once it was cured I saw that it had deformed the opening of the cowl and I had to take it back out. Some careful Dremel work was successful but I hope I don't ever have to do that again. I put a brass tube in to hold the prop assembly. The basic assembly is done and most of the filling and sanding, though there are a few remaining spots to deal with.

Igor from House of Wax

1 week 1 day ago
¼ scale bust of Charles Bronson as Igor from the 1953 horror film “House of Wax” Kit produced & available from Crimson Pool Productions Sculpted by Ray Santoleri, Build up by McGovern’s Models

First Time IPMS Member

1 week 2 days ago
Greetings from Washington State: Just recently returned to plastic modelling this year after some 20+ years. Like many of you, I have been building models since my childhood, but then we grow up and life gets very busy and hobbies get put on the back burner. Now that I'm 61 years old and moving toward retirement, my interest in modelling has sparked once again. I have rekindled my interest by building the MENG 1/32 Fokker DR1 over the last 6 months, was a fun build and the first in a tall stack of kits in my new stash! Next one on my work bench will be the LUKGRAPH - RAF BE2c premium resin kit, still doing research on the aircraft but really looking forward to his build as the BE2c is one of my favorite WW1 birds. Thanks, Quirk

2022 IPMS Nats Category Question.

1 week 2 days ago
Trying to determine which category to enter a 1/24 Trumpeter Messerschmitt BF109. None seem to fit in current category list Any 2022 Nats judges or out there that can suggest a category?

Mud Hole

1 week 3 days ago
This is the Hobby Boss kit with resin stowage bundles from Black Dog. The figures are from Stalingrad. The stowage bundles were painted just like the figures, or the figures were painted just like the bundles, take your pick. The water was done with epoxy resin with artist gel to create the surface ripples. Dak

Gold Medal Models ship line of photoetch sold to Squadron

1 week 3 days ago
Loren Perry announced yesterday that GMM's ship line of photoetch details has been sold to Squadron. Stock on hand, masters, instructions, and similar intellectual property is being packed for shipping to Squadron in Georgia. The products will appear on the Squadron website in the near future and will continue to be trademarked as GMM. The announcement indicates that Squadron will continue to use the same etcher so GMM's quality will remain. GMM's railroad lines are not included in this sale Loren had previously announced his impending retirement and intention of closing Gold Medal Models. He had stopped taking orders earlier this week Brandon Lowe of Squadron will be at the Nats and you can get all the gory details there This is all-in-all positive news.

/48 ICM Do-17Z-2 World War II German light bomber

1 week 4 days ago
This next build is the 1/48 ICM Do-17Z-2 World War II German light bomber. This is a twin-engined light bomber produced by Dornier Flugzeugwerke for the German Luftwaffe during World War II. It was nicknamed the “Flying Pencil” (Fliegender Bleistift) and was known for its excellent handling especially at low altitude. Coupled with the twin engines and the speed it could attain it was more difficult to shoot down than the larger twin engine bombers. It was utilized early in the war until it was replaced with the Do-217 which had larger engines, longer range and a larger bomb bay. This model will be built using one of Eduard’s newer “LOOK” set which is a highly detailed resin instrument panel and photo etch seat belts. The scheme I will be doing is that of the Kampfgeschwader 76 (KG 76) stationed in France during August 1940. Starting with the cockpit the kit comes with some nice details. I used some of my spare photo etch to add some extra details like the wiring and replacing the plastic levers with photo etch versions. For the pilot’s seating area I made a decal of the compass face and applied it to the center piece. I then painted the Dornier logo on the center of the control stick. A few photo etch seat belts completed the assembly. The Eduard instrument panel was then mounted in place. The co-pilots seat was built and detailed with photo etch seat belts and mounted into position. I had to do some mold mark clean up in the center bay and installed the framing sections. I have just a couple of details to add and then the fuselage can be assembled. Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-do-17z-2-german-light-bomber/

The Duke Finishes Nine More Armor in June

2 weeks ago
Over the past week I've been working hard to get these all finished since they were so close to being done. Finally, the finish line was crossed. Man this feels great! To start, my Swedish Army is taking delivery of this M-34 Assault Gun. This is a 1/72 scale model from UM Models: Yes, I noticed the decals have silvered a little. Already fixed. Next, my Australian Army is taking delivery of this Bushmaster: And last of all, my Russian Army is taking delivery of all these. First, this CLUB M Coastal Defense Missile System for their Artillery Arm: I left the rear open to see the launch tubes inside... ... also because they both elevate to their firing position. One is seen elevated here; the angle is a trick of the camera and the angle the pic was taken. These both elevate to 90 degrees: The Armor Arm of my Russian Army is taking delivery of these. Russian T-62 Mod 1978 with ERA: Russian T-64 Mod 1980: Russian T-64AV: Yes, there's too much glue on the brackets. They kept threatening to break so I wanted to insure they stayed on there for a while. I might have to find some stowage or something to cover them with...... eventually. Next is this Russian T-64BM-2: Russian T-72 "Rogatka": ...and last but not least, this T-80BV: Wow, I love when enough things fall into place allowing me to be able to finish so many. I do have potentially one or two more that I could finish this month; I sure hope I can. Stay tuned. Thanks for looking in, comments are welcome.

Wyatt Earp

2 weeks ago
Hey Gang, been a while. I still haven't fully gotten my mojo back, tho it is getting a little easier to force myself out of the chair , and up the stairs to my hobby room. This time I have CGS' Wyatt Earp, in 200mm. The arms were separate from the body, and hands, which were in the rifle. So it was a bit of a juggling match to line everything up. Another problem was the rifle barrels were warp, and needed the hot water treatment to straighten The other thing I noticed was that the head was sculpted separately from the body, and the pupild were sculpted in looking straight ahead. Putting the head on the bod where he should be looking down the barrels in the movie, he was looking off to the side. IMHO it looked silly and had to repaint the eyes over at the very end. All in all it was a good kit. Thanks for looking.

Many Colourcoats Enamels Discontinued

2 weeks ago
As posted on Britmodeller:  “We are discontinuing the entire range of French Air Force, WWI Allied Naval Camouflage, Italian Navy, Modern Navy, Imperial Japanese Army, Australian Army, Israeli Self-Defence Force, Italian Army, Russian Army and United States Army and Marine Corps, alongside individual colours as named below.” C07 – Buff C08 – Bright Blued Gunmetal C10 – Parkerised Gunmetal C11 – Blued Gunmetal ACGW05 – Beige ACGW06 – Chestnut Brown ACGW07 – Dark Green ACGW08 – Light Green ACGW09 – Light Yellow ACLW07 – Hellgrau (L40/52) ACS05 – WUP Grey Interior Primer ACS06 – IMUP Blue-Grey Metal Primer ACS07 – ALG-5 Metal Primer ACS14 – AE9 Grey ACS22 – A.II Red ACUS10 – WWII USN Non-Specular White ACUS31 – Yellow Sand (FS20400) ACUS32 – Brown Special (FS30140) KM07 – Blaugrau Dunkel KM08 – Norwegian Blaugrau Mittel KM09 – Blaugrau Hell US37 – Slate As of this writing, some of these are already sold out at H & B Hobbies, but White Ensign Models has stock of the most common colors except French Air Force.

Bandai 1/48 Matilda Mk II

2 weeks 3 days ago
The old Bandai 1/48 armor kits were really gems at the time and still aren't all that bad. They all sported at least a minimal interior while other companies kits had nothing but old motorization brackets. This one is bound for Malta camouflage. I completed the interior with some extra "busying-up" parts added, like some more bins in the hull, some wiring a recoil guard for the main gun and I bodged together a sort of #19 radio set. The turret basket is not accurate and is actually in common with that in the Valentine kit. As a matter of fact, if you check the one in the ESCI 1/72 scale Valentine, you'll find it's also the same. But accuracy aside, again, at least there's something in there to see through the hatches I intend to leave open. In the end, it turned out pretty well for a kit that dates from 1975. The figure is from the Tamiya Humber a/c kit as there was no crew in the box when I got it. This is everything before exterior painting started, with the exception of the exhaust system. And here's the final product.
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4 hours 13 minutes ago
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