This is direct replacement for the Airfix part. At first glance you might question why a replacement is needed as the kit part is actually very nice. Upon closer examination you’ll see that Aires has spared the trouble of drilling out the exhaust tips to represent the open ends of the pipes. It’s worth the price of admission if you what to avoid that tedious task. The parts are easy to get off the casting block and a perfect match for the mounting holes on the base kit. Aires also makes another set with fishtail ends (set # QB 72 483) reviewed elsewhere in this site that don’t come in the Airfix kit. Thanks to Aires for improving an already great kit.
This is direct replacement for the Airfix part. Like their rounded exhaust (part 72 482 see my other review) this is also a direct replacement for the kit parts. This detail set has the exhaust ends drilled out to save you the trouble of doing so. That’s especially helpful given the oval shape of the exhaust ends. The parts are easy to get off the casting block and a perfect match for the mounting holes on the base kit. Thanks to Aires-Quickboost for giving improved options for both exhausts provided in the base kit.
This set replaces the horizontal stabilizers and elevators of the base kit. While the Airfix parts are certainly nice in their own right, this set allows the control surfaces to be posed and have slightly thinner trailing edges for a more scale appearance. Be very careful trimming the resin away from the mounting tabs and test fit to ensure as close a fit as the kit parts provide. The elevators fit very well into a recess molded into the stabilizers. If you want to have the rear control surfaces offset this is the way to achieve that. Thanks to Aires for the sample of a well done set.
Aires-Quick boost has solved a few issues with the base kit in this set. The De Havilland prop is the one included in the Airfix kit. A comparison of the kit part to this one shows several advantages going to Aires. First, the spinner is cast as a single part with very fine lines representing the breaks in the real aircraft’s spinner. Next, there is a hole cast in the front that’s not on the kit part. The tool (jig) allows accurate placement of the blade angle. It also provides a hole that centers the spinner hole (you have to drill out) when you set it into the round recess provided. Be very careful to cut the blades off the casting block in a way to leave the maximum length to inset into the spinner. If you cut them short, you will have difficulty maintaining the 120 degree spread between the blades. Another plus for this set is the spinner on the version I built had a white front and black rear portion. Luckily there is a fine joint line right where the masking has to go.
During the latter years of World War II, the Luftwaffe was scrambling to finds ways to combat the ever increasing aerial onslaught of the Allied bombing campaign. Many solutions were proposed, some very successful, such as the Me 262, while others never left the drawing board. Some very odd proposals actually made it off the drawing board. The Bachem 349 Natter was one of these odd ideas that were actually in the test phase when the war ended.