The Trumpeter F-100 series is a welcome addition to plastic modeling and the F-100 F two-seater fills a big hole for the serious model builder. Eduard is a well-known company with a reputation for providing very nice detail sets for many of today’s new model kits. Eduard has now produced several photoetch details sets for the F-100 F such as seatbelts, cockpit interior, undercarriage and exterior.

The seatbelt set, #49540, contains all of the seatbelts, buckles and pads for both the front and rear seats as well as the foot rests for the ejection seats. The belts are pre-painted in the appropriate colors, all you have to do is apply a drop of super glue and put the part in place. It is a slow and tedious process but the finished kit parts look fantastic.

ModelArt Spring 2011 No. 39 is entirely devoted to US Light and Escort Carriers in WW2. Armor, aircraft and car buffs will only have a few small ads to peruse, with one exception. Aircraft modelers will love the section on aircraft markings for individual carriers. No. 39 turns out to be an excellent reference work on US Navy WW2 smaller carriers, but as usual the text is entirely in Japanese. However, the historical data section is still useful, and the usual scrutiny of recently available kit builds are very helpful for modelers. This format is larger than regular monthly ModelArt magazines, and the printing quality is of high standards. The book measures 210 X 296 mm (that’s 8-1/4 by 11-3/4 inches). The majority of the article photos are in color. My chief complaint with their layout is that many larger photographs of ship models cross pages, resulting in a dead zone where the spine is – it really breaks up otherwise spectacular photos.

Quickboost has provided modelers with a means to attach P-51 propeller blades to the spinner for the Hasegawa kits in a repeatable manner. The resin pieces were cast in a fine grain resin without flaws and with very little clean up. What one has to do is to remove the casting gates off the bottom of the spinner and the blade setting tool. I used a disc sander for that and a snip to remove the blades and shaft from the casting block.