With the release of HK Models’ 1/32nd B-25, it didn't take longer for the aftermarket companies to step in and start producing detail sets. Profimodeller is one of these and they have come up with some really nice stuff. So far, they have released 9 different detail sets, all at a very reasonable cost. I have ordered the additional sets from Profimodeller's website and found it quite easy to use. They are very helpful in answering questions and quick to respond (please note the time difference, you are dealing with Czechoslovakia). I used Pay Pal for payment and received my goodies in a week.

This will be a "First Look" type review. I will be building a B-25 and incorporating the set in the build, but it's going to take a while.

The Su-33 Flanker D is an all-weather-carrier based air defense fighter based on the Su-27. The airplane had a production run of 24 units.

Hasegawa has produced a kit of this interesting aircraft for modelers. As usual, Quickboost has added several items to improve the accuracy of the basic Su-33 Flanker D kit.

The first part is a correct nose cone. The attached photo shows the Quickboost part compared to an Su-27 from my collection. The new cone is the correct shape for the model and is interchangeable with the kit part. It is molded in cream colored resin. It is smooth, seamless and bubble-free.

I highly recommend this product if you want a really superior-looking model. Since this part is interchangeable with the kit parts, it can be recommended for all levels of modelers.

Attaching the wings. The lower wings were first and to ensure everything was in alignment, I cleaned the mating surfaces of paint, did a test fit, and applied the Gunze liquid cement. Getting everything properly lined up, I taped the wings down to the work surface to dry. Don’t do this.

Having painted all of the wing and cabane struts with Tamiya tan acrylic, and after that was dry using the basic Wingnut Wings technique for replicating wood that is found on their website, I applied burnt sienna oil paint with a sponge, then removed a great deal of that with a stiff bristled chisel brush to get in some wood grain effects. These have to dry for at least a couple of days, if not more, depending on your locale’s environmental conditions. I suspect there is a liquid agent that would speed up the drying time of oil paint and I’m going to look into this.