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Review Author
Tim Hortman
Published on
Company
Fine Molds
Scale
1/35
MSRP
$67.50

Fine Molds continues to add to their great line of WWII Japanese Armor – this time with a variant of the Type 3 “CHI-NU” Tank. This up-gunned long barreled version of the Type 3 was a paper-only project. The variant was expected to go into production in 1946, but as we know the war ended before then. It was thought that the gun on the Type 3 would not be sufficient to knock out US Armor at long ranges, so plans were drawn up to fit the Type 3 tank with a long barrel 75mm gun.

This kit is exactly the same as the other Type 3 “CHI-NU”, with the addition of the sprues for the longer barrel, and turret parts. In fact with this boxing, you will end up with some extra parts for your stash, as some of the parts from the earlier release are included, but not used. The kit’s 203 parts are molded in tan, with a sprue of clear parts, and nicely done ‘rubber band’ tracks.

Review Author
Pablo Bauleo
Published on
Company
Eduard
Scale
1/48
MSRP
$39.95

Eduard has released its Messerschmitt Bf-110G-4 in the Weekend format. I appreciate Eduard releasing kits in the “weekend” format as a more affordable channel for modelers to get access to a kit. This is the most expensive kit ever boxed in the Weekend format ($39.95) but you get a lot of plastic for your money; as a reference point, the Profipack version retails for $64.95.

So, what is in the box? You get all the plastic sprues from the Profipack packing, except sprue D (underwings ordinance). The decal sheet, printed by Cartograf, has one option and stencils are included. The box includes 11 sprues for a total of 349 parts. I should mention that you get over 100 parts (mainly from the 110E) that go straight to the spares box. The kit does not include photoetch nor canopy masks.

Review Author
Brian R. Baker
Published on
Company
Mushroom Model Publications - MMP Books
Scale
1/32
MSRP
$20.35

This is a British product, the first of a series, providing a very nice set of 1/32 scale decals and an accompanying booklet, featuring three aircraft flown by Polish pilots flying with the French Armee de l’Aire during the Battle of France in 1940. Two versions of this issue exist, one in 1/32 scale and one in 1/48. The decal sheet and booklet are provided in one unit, and cannot be purchased separately.

The booklet, a rather large publication of 16 pages plus cover, measures 13 by 9 ¼ inches, and consists of detailed information on the colors and markings of each aircraft. A short history of the pilot and his operational career is included, and these make interesting reading. The booklet is filled with excellently reproduced photos, mostly from German sources, as many of the photos show Luftwaffe personnel examining the abandoned French aircraft.

Review Author
Chris Smith
Published on
Company
Revell, Inc.
Scale
1/24
MSRP
$19.95

The Kurtis Kraft company built some of the first specialty race cars of the post war era. Started by Frank Kurtis in the 1930s, the company would go on to build race cars ranging from midget racers to the “big cars,” that raced the grand prix circuit which included The Indy 500. This model represents a 1955 Kurtis Kraft 500C model powered by a 255 ci Offenhauser engine producing 400hp. These cars could hit 170 mph. Nine of these cars were built. In fact, between 1950 and 1955 Kurtis Kraft cars won four of five Indy races.

Review Author
Pablo Bauleo
Published on
Company
Master Model
Scale
1/48
MSRP
$13.00

The FuG 220 Sn-2b radar antennas were installed on Bf 110 and Ju 88 night fighters during World War. These radar antennas are the focal point of any night fighter kit. Model Master from Poland provides us with turned brass antenna struts and antenna dipoles to enhance the look of our next night fighter kit.

The turned brass parts mean that no mold line is present and that alone is enough of a reason to consider upgrading your kit. The other advantage is that antenna struts and dipoles actually have a circular cross-section.

Assembly is straightforward and simple. The instructions recommend soldering the parts together for assembly, but my soldering skills are not very good. I’ve used super glue instead. It worked OK, but I managed to knock off the dipoles in a few occasions during construction.